Altitude 407m a.s.l
Cardiff University Mountaineering Club enjoying the autumn sunshine © David Maddison
Bamford Edge consists of a fine series of jutting buttresses in a spectacular situation above the upper reaches of the Derwent Valley and the Ladybower Reservoir. For many years restricted access meant that the edge became something of a backwater, though this changed with the introduction of CROW. The crag is now firmly on the circuit; it can get busy especially on fine summer weekends and is starting to look a little tired in places. The rock is a coarse form of gritstone, the pebbles forming crucial holds on some of the hardest climbs.
A minor road (New Road) runs below the cliff from a point 1km north of the village of Bamford and just south of the Yorkshire Bridge pub. At the top of this is roadside parking for a dozen or more cars by a gate. Cross this then follow the track that heads left rising steadily to Gun Buttress, which is hidden just around the corner, about 15 mins from the road. Alternatively for the Northern bouldering circuit, park in Heatherdene public car park by Ladybower reservoir and walk up past the picnic area, through pleasant oak woods to the end of the rocks.
Please access Bamford only by the reccomended access path in the Burbage, Millstone and Beyond (2005) guide. This access point is beside a layby next to an obvious marked gate with a stile. Previous guides have mentioned an access point by an iron gate and an old ruin - please do NOT use this.
Bamford is included within a long term restriction for dogs on open access land (the restriction covers the whole of Moscar, Derwent and Hallam Moors). Dogs are still allowed on public rights of way, but not on the access land to the sides or on footpaths that are not designated as rights of way. Given that there are no rights of way that run under the crag, please do not take dogs climbing with you as this could damage the currently good relationship climbers enjoy with the landowner.
Dates: 15 May to 13 June
Ring ouzels nest on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford each year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Updated and expanded edition of the award-winning Peak Grit East. Covers all the best routes on the eastern Gritstone edges of the Peak District - Wharncliffe, Rivelin, Dovestone Tor, Bamford, Stanage, Burbage North, Higgar Tor, Burbage South, Millstone, Lawrencefield, Yarncliffe, Froggatt, Curbar, Baslow, Gardoms, Birchen, Chatsworth, Cratcliffe, Black Rocks
The Peak Bouldering Rockfax is a massive book covering a huge area including all the main bouldering venues of the Peak District. It includes many more low-grade problems than have ever been documented before including 17 circuits with problems at V0+ 5a and under, and a further 21 circuits with problems at V2 5c and below.