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28m.

Rockfax Description
The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to the base of the streak. Climb straight up this which is sustained and fingery all the way to its top (a rest is possible on the left, in the scoop of Catharsis, for the harassed). At the top of the streak, pull up and finish up Ivy Gash. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
First thread on the head wall replaced May 2015. Second thread needs replacing. The rest are okish but not new. Good in situ ab point / belay at the top off a massive metal cable thread.

FA. John Yates 1974.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, World Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Definitive *** Peak Lime

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User Date Notes
Fiend 19 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Magificent, as good as any bit of pocket pulling you'd find on the Continent. Currently well threaded and deserving of a fair 6b+. The off-route deviation to a rest out left does NOT get you the tick! Just a bloody great bit of climbing. To avoid the utterly vile and lethal approach from below, and to avoid the grass slopes getting to the Ivy Gash belay, it's possible to ab from the hawthorn cluster to the belay ledge with a 50m ab rope. A 60m ab rope would get you to Majolica too.
βeta?
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βeta: Magificent, as good as any bit of pocket pulling you'd find on the Continent. Currently well threaded and deserving of a fair 6b+. The off-route deviation to a rest out left does NOT get you the tick! Just a bloody great bit of climbing. To avoid the utterly vile and lethal approach from below, and to avoid the grass slopes getting to the Ivy Gash belay, it's possible to ab from the hawthorn cluster to the belay ledge with a 50m ab rope. A 60m ab rope would get you to Majolica too.
TonyM 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Surely the difficulty is pretty dependent on the number of threads in situ? Climbed as a clip-up (condition last weekend), it's straightforward. Quality though! Lots of 1st finger joint moves.
βeta?
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βeta: Surely the difficulty is pretty dependent on the number of threads in situ? Climbed as a clip-up (condition last weekend), it's straightforward. Quality though! Lots of 1st finger joint moves.
NickAL 21 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A worthwhile 'warm-up-approach' is to lead Pocket Symphony (can be done in one pitch from the ground), then do the 2nd, traverse pitch of Ivy Gash lowering off the top belay it shares with black grub (watch the ends of the rope when lowering the 2nd). Nick Learmont
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A worthwhile 'warm-up-approach' is to lead Pocket Symphony (can be done in one pitch from the ground), then do the 2nd, traverse pitch of Ivy Gash lowering off the top belay it shares with black grub (watch the ends of the rope when lowering the 2nd). Nick Learmont
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Lovelly sustained pocket pulling, with a distinct crux just below the move left. I thought there was a better rest when you move back right onto the black streak than the one out left. The approach is horrible and if the fixed rope wears out, you could go a long way.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovelly sustained pocket pulling, with a distinct crux just below the move left. I thought there was a better rest when you move back right onto the black streak than the one out left. The approach is horrible and if the fixed rope wears out, you could go a long way.
chrishedgehog 23 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Just reached the approach path on 50m ropes from the steel cable threaded at the top of Ivy Gash - a good descent option. The approach is really grim and merits respect, even in the dry.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Just reached the approach path on 50m ropes from the steel cable threaded at the top of Ivy Gash - a good descent option. The approach is really grim and merits respect, even in the dry.
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: A nice long pitch, best done without the rest for the 'full' experience.
βeta?
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βeta: A nice long pitch, best done without the rest for the 'full' experience.

Logged Ascents

187 users have logged this
34 users have this on their wishlist
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High E4
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Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 42
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 41
Votes cast 39
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
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Route of Interest

Comedian

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Hen Cloud)