UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
Follow The Thorn until a traverse leads out right to a ledge (possible stance to the right if required) then climb the face via a short crack and the wall above up a shallow groove running up towards the ivy. Cut left under this to reach the Ivy Gash. © Rockfax

FA. Nat Allen D.Burgess 1970.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 2 Nov, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: As far as i can tell the line shown in the topos in both the current BMC Peak Limestone South 2017 and Rockfax Peak Limestone 2020 are wrong. I belive Sagnation is closer to the line shown as Nocturne. Nocturne is actually to the right exiting left just under the main ivy patch. See older rockfax guides 2004/2012 for the correct lines and read the descriptions and they fit this, otherwise there is a 3 route which has been climbed for years to the right. Personally I thought the left line was far better
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As far as i can tell the line shown in the topos in both the current BMC Peak Limestone South 2017 and Rockfax Peak Limestone 2020 are wrong. I belive Sagnation is closer to the line shown as Nocturne. Nocturne is actually to the right exiting left just under the main ivy patch. See older rockfax guides 2004/2012 for the correct lines and read the descriptions and they fit this, otherwise there is a 3 route which has been climbed for years to the right. Personally I thought the left line was far better
supersteve 22 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good introduction to the climbing on this wall. Worth another star.
Show beta
βeta: A good introduction to the climbing on this wall. Worth another star.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 32
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
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High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ten Craters of Wisdom

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Dovedale)

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