UKC

Restricted Access

The Beeston Tor caves at the right-hand side of the crag are an important archaeological site and the landowner (The National Trust) do not want any disturbance to the caves themselves. The Trust has requested that if climbers at the crag notice any suspicious activity around the caves (eg digging, metal detecting, carrying equipment or bags to/from the caves etc), that they call 01335 350503 and leave a message with any details.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies from Flying Doctor The Thorn to Central Wall / Cleo's Mood inclusive (depending on which guidebook you are using).

38m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Approach up Nocturne. From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises aplenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into the Ivy Gash. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 18m. Move right along the ledge of Nocturne to a stance.
2) 5b, 20m. Head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (surprises a-plenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into The Ivy Gash.

FA. Dave Jones R.Cope 1978.

Ticklists

The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Soft Touches , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Dunc's ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
JMarkW 4 Feb, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful.
Chris the Tall 5 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them.
Si dH 13 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though.
John Alcock 31 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun, good gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun, good gear.
Ropeboy 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear.

Logged Ascents

573 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Beeston Tor

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 64 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 89
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 24
Votes cast 94
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Safety Net

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Skyline)

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