Rockfax Description
Approach up Nocturne. From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises aplenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into the Ivy Gash. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1) 4c, 18m. Move right along the ledge of Nocturne to a stance.
2) 5b, 20m. Head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (surprises a-plenty) to pass right of the ivy and escape into The Ivy Gash.
FA. Dave Jones R.Cope 1978.
The Peak: Past and Present , Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Soft Touches , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Dunc's ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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JMarkW | 4 Feb, 2007 |
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βeta: Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good climbing and I thought the threads were okay, note the tip in the guide about coat hangers and cord - very useful. |
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Chris the Tall | 5 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them. |
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Si dH | 13 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are too thin and nowhere near strong enough to hold a fall - I ripped one through (about 1cm across) just with friction and a small static force at the belay the orute before I did this and so refused to trust them. Sideways nuts are also very dodgy because the rock is a bit friable and wears away around them. Great climbing though. |
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John Alcock | 31 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Good fun, good gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Good fun, good gear. |
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Ropeboy | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very pleasant, take plenty of threads for enjoyably fiddly gear. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Roaches Lower Tier)