145m, 5 pitches. A direct line up the middle of the Silver Slabs, bold in places but with good climbing, taking the top overlaps at their most interesting. Small to large Friends needed. Start below the bottom overlap, midway between the jutting block of Boom Time on the left and a wet corner to the right. 1. 25m 5a Climb up to a thin left-slanting crack and surmount the well protected overlap to an initially steep slab. Climb this direct to an overlap just right of a clean-cut corner. 2. 55m 4b Climb the overlap to a steep slab. Go up this in the centre via hidden holds and continue with minimal protection up the easier clean slabs and small overlaps to the terrace that cuts across the slabs below the overlapping headwall slabs. Belay on the right at a big cracked block. 3.20m 4a Climb up a left-slanting corner with possibly suspect blocks, keeping to their left and move left to a ledge. 4. 25m 4c/5a Climb over an undercut overlap, step left then straight over the next overlap to a break in the top overhang just left of a large block. Climb over via the slanting crack and continue up and left to reach grass and a cracked block. An excellent pitch, well protected and surprising. 5. 20m Move up left more easily to finish.

John Mackenzie, Eve Austin; John Mackenzie, Colin Tarbat. 02/Aug/2011.


Good New Routes in Scotland


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Route of Interest
Bloodlust Variation (aka Juglust)

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sheigra Sea Cliffs)

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