3 pitches.
In the SMC database as E2 5c*** but we could find no line which matched that quality/difficulty. Hard to see how there could be a pitch of that grade on this crag unless it is very eliminate. Another ascent thought they had found the correct line but that it was HVS.
The route actually goes through the steepest overlaps at the top, usually wet and requires a long dry spell. The crux pitch is well left of ‘Slideshow’ and right of ‘Meridian’. The SMCJ has an erroneous start for the route. It lies on the right hand side of the slabs, well up from the Main Slabs and starts left of ‘Slideshow’. When dry probably E1 but very little gear above the lower section of the top pitch, thus the grade. The whole route gave good climbing.
The route actually goes through the steepest overlaps at the top, usually wet and requires a long dry spell. The crux pitch is well left of ‘Slideshow’ and right of ‘Meridian’. The SMCJ has an erroneous start for the route. It lies on the right hand side of the slabs, well up from the Main Slabs and starts left of ‘Slideshow’. When dry probably E1 but very little gear above the lower section of the top pitch, thus the grade. The whole route gave good climbing.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| John Mackenzie | 8 Jan |
Show βeta
βeta: The SMCJ put the climb on the left when in fact it lies on the left-hand side of the right section of slabs starting left of ‘’Slideshow’ up an initially thin slab direct and then over overlaps for a 40m pitch. Two shorter easier pitches in the same line lead to the top overlaps which are black and very rarely dry and lie left of the easier overlaps of ‘Slideshow’. Even after a long dry spell this top pitch was damp in places and led up to a slanting corner before stepping over and finishing up the edge more easily. Given dry conditions E15b and two stars as the climbing is good. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: The SMCJ put the climb on the left when in fact it lies on the left-hand side of the right section of slabs starting left of ‘’Slideshow’ up an initially thin slab direct and then over overlaps for a 40m pitch. Two shorter easier pitches in the same line lead to the top overlaps which are black and very rarely dry and lie left of the easier overlaps of ‘Slideshow’. Even after a long dry spell this top pitch was damp in places and led up to a slanting corner before stepping over and finishing up the edge more easily. Given dry conditions E15b and two stars as the climbing is good. |
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Logged Ascents
There are no ascents logged for this climb.
Route of Interest
Rapture
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Sheigra Sea Cliffs)