195m, 5 pitches. A logical route taking the easiest left to right line through some steep and potentially difficult ground.
Start at the extreme lowest point at the left end of the slabs immediately before the prominent left-hand gully proper. This is about 30m right of Penguin's Paradise.

1) 40m. Climb a slabby wall with two tricky mantelshelf moves, then faint grooves to a small overlap. Climb this and up the cracked slab to a small sloping ledge.

2) 35m. Continue up the cracked slab and trend right on steep grass to good cracks and tree below a prominent rib.

3) 30m. Climb up and on to the rib and follow it without difficulty to a grassy niche.

4) 60m. Move right on to the exposed hanging slabs; follow these trending right to gain a short corner. An exposed and poorly protected pitch.

5) 30m. Continue up the slab and then on steep grass to belay below the headwall. Traverse off to the left to gain the left-hand descent gully.

A possible continuation is to traverse right across easy vegetated slabs to an arete overlooking the main slabs.

R. Salisbury, J. Hearne, C. Cariney, D. Jackman 18/Mar/2004.

Feedback Always Hide βeta

There are no ascents logged for this climb.