Rockfax Description
200m. Excellent climbing with fine situations; pity the last two pitches are much harder than the rest. Often climbed with a point of aid on pitch 8; this reduces the grade to E1. From the Coffin Stone follow the path left for about 40m past a large silver birch tree to the foot of a clean slab. Start below the right-hand of two parallel cracks.
1) 5a, 35m. Follow the right-slanting crack to a heathery ledge.
2) 4b, 25m. Move right across the ledge to a slab below a small block overlap.
3) 4c, 10m. Climb the slab and move directly over a small overlap to beneath the main overlap.
4) 5a, 25m. Step up right and find a way to attain a standing position on the lip, then traverse left along the Moustache to a grass ledge. It is possible to protect the second by a Friend about 3m along the traverse.
5) 4c, 35m. Above is the first quartz band. Climb this to a grass ledge, tree belay.
6) 5a, 30m. Move up right to a ledge, draw breath, and climb the second quartz band.
7) 5c, 20m. Traverse 2m left beneath the upper overlap to climb a short corner and its ensuing groove, then go up and left to a tree below the final corner.
8) 6a, 20m. Climb the crack just left of the main crack for 10m, then move up and right to climb the corner to a ledge, finishing by a layback. Or, for a slabbier finish to the route, finish up The Long Wait. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Lochaber Esoterica , Hard Rock 2020 , Fred Harper Legacy List , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Scottish Hard Rock 2020 , 4 Star Scottish rock , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands

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