Rockfax Description
220m. A magnificent sustained route with some quite bold slab sections. It is possible (but normally accidental) to miss the small corner on pitch 4 and climb direct up slabs just to its left; the pitch is then unprotected and will feel like E2. Start directly behind the Coffin Stone at a blank slab.
1) 5b, 40m. Climb black stained rock to enter a right-facing groove and climb this, then trend up rightwards to cross an overlap. Belay on the ledge above as for Spartan Slab. The blank slab can be climbed by more direct, less protected variants.
2) 5b, 40m. Climb the twin grooves above on to the slab, step up to a large pocket, then attain a standing position on a quartz band and go horizontally left on this for 5m. Continue up diagonally left to follow a small corner (The Pause) to the main overlap where a left traverse gains the belay of Swastika below the obvious crossing point.
3) 5a, 25m. Surmount the overlap as for Swastika (Friend 3 protects the second), then go right to small ledges with a thin grassy break above (possible belay). Continue up and right for some 5m to belay in a small left-facing corner on The Pause.
4) 5b, 30m. Traverse 3m left, then climb the slab past a quartz pocket to a small corner formed by a shallow right-facing groove and its continuation overlap going rightwards. Make a ‘Long Reach' out left then go straight up to belay towards the left side of a small overlap.
5) 5b, 40m. Climb the overlap and a bulge in the slab above then; either climb directly to just below the main terminal overlap (sometimes wet) and traverse right to belay below and right of an overhung groove in the overlap; or climb a black slab going obliquely rightwards to gain a more scooped slab leading to a left trending groove/overlap which is followed to the right end of the main overlap, step right to belay on The Pause. From here many finish up The Pause, because the large overlap that now follows seems out of keeping with the slabs climbed below.
6) 5b, 35m. Either move up left to below the groove in the large overlap, or make a 4m traverse to it. Using a jug on the left wall gain the groove (bold), then follow it to a ledge and make a traverse left to a sentry box. Thin cracks lead out of this to the tree-lined ledges.
7) 4c, 10m. The original finish up a small corner in the headwall is dirty and it may be better to climb the vertical corner of The Pause and TheLong Wait. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Fantastic Bold slab climbing at its very best.

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Best slab climbs of the UK , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Summer Trip 2014 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , 3 and 4 star E2 5b routes in Scotland , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , Dad's Scottish Rock Underliners , 4 Star Scottish rock , A.P's summer , Slab Dreams , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Gary Latter's Ticklist (Extremes) , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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