UKC
65m, 2 pitches. Start just left of the smirk below a steep bulge. There is an obvious icy fan hanging down from the lip of the big roof (when in condition)

1. 25m. Climb the short bulge up and left to a turfy band/break in the steep wall. Traverse the steep wall leftwards (Bold) to the thin Ice fan. Gain the ice with difficulty (tenuous) and climb the hanging pillar to the cave/ledge. Belay.

2. 40m. Step left out of the cave and delicately climb the steep ice to a large snowy ledge, at the back of the ledge there is another steep ice wall, climb this to its top and finish up the easy ground as for “The Smirk”.

Greg Boswell and Neil Carnegie 09/Dec/2010.

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Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Guidebooks for Beinn Udlaidh

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book
Scottish Winter Climbs West Cover
Scottish Winter Climbs West (2022)
Scottish Mountaineering Club
By Neil Adams
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Route of Interest
Tim Miller on the steep and imposing third pitch of Neanderthal
Neanderthal

Grade: VII 7 ***
(The Lost Valley (Coire Gabhail))

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