Rockfax Description
100m. This direct line gives an excellent steep climb. Start 50m up and left from the end of the cliff base, at the foot of a prominent left-slanting chimney-fault.
1. 40m 4c Move out right to steep slabs, starting about 5m below a curious round niche. Climb up the wall above (a big groove is now 3m to the right). Go left and pull over a bulge into a hanging corner. Step left at a small roof, then go down left and traverse along a flake ledge to its end.
2. 25m 4b Above is a shallow cracked groove with a bulge. Climb the groove and exit right on to a ramp which ascends from a depression in the big groove to the right. Follow the ramp up left to its top.
3. 35m 5b Go up right to a vertical crack above a rock pedestal. Overcome the initial bulge and continue directly up the crack to slabs which lead to the top.
FA R.J.Archbold, D.M.Nichols, 10 Jun 1979
FA J.McArtney, J.Stenhouse 13 Jul 1964 (pitch 3 final crack) © Rockfax
Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Must climb at crags , A.P's summer , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Huntly's Cave)