Rockfax Description
115m. This excellent route follows a conspicuous corner trending left up the centre of the buttress. The route is named for the large slab that forms the corner. Scramble up broken rocks to a good platform 10m below the corner.
1. 10m 4a Climb a shallow depression and move awkwardly right to below the corner.
2. 20m 4b Climb the corner to a grass platform.
3. 40m 4a Continue up the corner to an overhang. Turn this on the left and go up to a ledge (possible belay). Climb by the corner at the right edge of the Grey Slab, until forced to move left at its top.
4. 45m 4a Step down and enter the chimney on the left. It is more satisfying (but 5a) to climb a short slab and enter the chimney higher up. Finish up the chimney.
FA M.Higgins, J.C.Innes, B.T.Lawrie, 14 Sep 1963 © Rockfax
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , 50 more great HS routes , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Greg's bucket list
User | Date | Notes | ||
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AliBaxter | 14 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: To avoid final (often wet and terrible) chimney pitch finish up final pitch of Ferlas Mor by branching off right 2/3rd of the way up the slab (3rd) pitch. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: To avoid final (often wet and terrible) chimney pitch finish up final pitch of Ferlas Mor by branching off right 2/3rd of the way up the slab (3rd) pitch. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Huntly's Cave)