Rockfax Description
85m. A bold route taking the overhanging arête left of Titan's Wall. Protection is well-spaced and the rock is a little suspect on the third pitch. This is not a route for the faint-hearted!
1. 35m 5c Climb the rib for 15m to a small overhang. Gain the sloping ledge above, then follow a groove to a shelf below another overhang. Climb directly over this to the belay ledge at the top of pitch 1 of Titan's Wall.
2. 25m 6b Follow the short slim groove in the left side of the arête, then climb a thin crack to gain better holds on the right side of the arête leading up to a large dubious block. From a standing position on the block move precariously round the arête onto the left wall and climb this with difficulty to a good ledge and belay.
3. 25m 5c Climb a slight groove on the right for a few metres then move up left across the wall to a flake-crack in the arête. Climb this to good holds, then move right to the ledge at the top of Titan's Wall (poorly protected). Abseil.
FA P.Whillance, R.Anderson, 29 Aug 1983 © Rockfax
Extreme Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Flavio | 29 Jan, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Belay above crux p2 is no more... (rockfall) Traverse easily right to better gear towards Titans, or, better for your second, link into p3. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Belay above crux p2 is no more... (rockfall) Traverse easily right to better gear towards Titans, or, better for your second, link into p3. |
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Grade: E5 ***
(Beinn Eighe)