UKC

320m, 6 pitches. Start about a third of the way along the approach ramp to NE Buttress, an in-situ sling 5m up marks the start.
1. 50m Go up to the sling, traverse left along a narrow ledge then up an open gully to its end. Traverse up and right to a shelf under a steep wall to belay below a short groove, beware of rope drag.
2. 50m Go up groove then trend up and right across snow slopes to belay at the left end of a large terrace under a deep groove.
3. 60m Follow groove up left then back right until underneath a large steep wall on the left, belay below a short rock barrier.
4. 40m Craftily surmount the rock step with difficulty (crux) and gain a steep ramp up and right to an improbable traverse along a ledge below the steep wall. Block belay down and right of a short icy corner on the top pitch of The Lime Green Gaiter.
5. 60m Climb corner and easier snow then over an icy bulge to belay on a rock rib in the middle of open snow slopes.
6. 60m Go up and left on easy snow to join Route Major at the intersection with Frost Bite.

E Lyons, E Olivarius 29/Jan/2011.

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Route of Interest
Cobolt Buttress

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Meall Gorm)

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