UKC

A direct finish to the deep chimney cleft of Gutless. A short test of fitness that feels a whole lot longer than it is. The climbing is brilliant, the crux is placing gear.
1. 20m Directly above the deep fault-line of Gutless and beneath a seriously steep wall is a wide ledge. From the left of this ledge and directly above the finish of Gutless, climb an overhanging icy crack for approximately 5m until a small ledge is reached. Traverse the ledge, right to left to reach a good rest pedestal in a corner. From the ledge, climb the very steep corner above to exit on the left.

Nick Bullock & Matt Helliker 30/Nov/2011.

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Ultimate Scottish VII’s

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Route of Interest

Un Poco Loco

Grade: VII 7 ***
(Bidean nam Bian)
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