A direct finish to the deep chimney cleft of Gutless. A short test of fitness that feels a whole lot longer than it is. The climbing is brilliant, the crux is placing gear.
1. 20m Directly above the deep fault-line of Gutless and beneath a seriously steep wall is a wide ledge. From the left of this ledge and directly above the finish of Gutless, climb an overhanging icy crack for approximately 5m until a small ledge is reached. Traverse the ledge, right to left to reach a good rest pedestal in a corner. From the ledge, climb the very steep corner above to exit on the left.