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UKClimbing Team

180m, 5 pitches. Upgraded to IV,5 in the latest SMC Scottish Winter Climbs guide. First Pitch (which can be avoided by going gully and following groove) and last pitch hardest.

J.Y.MacDonald, H.W.Turnbull Mar/1934

Ticklists

Chasing the Ephemeral, Winter Aspirations

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Jezz0r 20 Mar Lead rpt
with Laurent
with Laurent
Hidden 16 Mar 2nd
BobKinsale 16 Mar 2nd O/S
Adrian Daniel 9 Mar 2nd O/S
Hidden 6 Mar 2nd O/S
arose 5 Mar Lead
with Clients
with Clients
Garry_C 4 Mar Lead dnf
HimTiggins 29 Feb AltLd O/S
with tebs, Sam
with tebs, Sam
Hidden 29 Feb AltLd
alexm198 28 Feb AltLd O/S Did the direct start which was fun. In 3 pitches, totalling 120m rather than the guidebook 180m. Led 1 and 3. Back at CIC for 11:30.
with Franz
Did the direct start which was fun. In 3 pitches, totalling 120m rather than the guidebook 180m. Led 1 and 3. Back at CIC for 11:30.
with Franz
planetmarshall u 25 Feb AltLd Scottish International Winter Meet
with Jakub Cejpek
Scottish International Winter Meet
with Jakub Cejpek
mzchambers 24 Feb AltLd rpt good not on the ledges to help. wild windy fully Scottish outing!!
good not on the ledges to help. wild windy fully Scottish outing!!
Artem Babichenko 23 Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Feb AltLd
Sam Marks 19 Feb AltLd O/S
william henderson 19 Feb Lead O/S Great comditions
Great comditions
Hidden 18 Feb AltLd
Mr Fuller 18 Feb Lead dnf Led first pitch but abbed off due to Liz being freezing. Fairly grim weather.
Led first pitch but abbed off due to Liz being freezing. Fairly grim weather.
Hidden 18 Feb 2nd dnf
Hidden 17 Feb Lead O/S
09packhamg 16 Feb 2nd β fell off but rescued a chocolate bar
with CRead
fell off but rescued a chocolate bar
with CRead
Toby Boud 16 Feb 2nd Via direct start, was told this start might be V.6 Winter!!!
Via direct start, was told this start might be V.6 Winter!!!
CRead 16 Feb Lead O/S Started direct up the chimney. In current conditions felt pretty spicy - a couple of tech 6 moves with sparse gear throughout the first pitch though much easier after the crux. All in p1 felt about V. Great climbing onwards to the top, good to get something done in the presence of Dennis! He certainly made things more interesting.
with Dennis the Menace, George Packham, Toby Boud
Started direct up the chimney. In current conditions felt pretty spicy - a couple of tech 6 moves with sparse gear throughout the first pitch though much easier after the crux. All in p1 felt about V. Great climbing onwards to the top, good to get something done in the presence of Dennis! He certainly made things more interesting.
with Dennis the Menace, George Packham, Toby Boud
Michael Chan 12 Feb AltLd O/S
with Dom
with Dom
Hidden 12 Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 11 Feb 2nd
Abu777 31 Jan 2nd O/S Climbed on second with guide. No snow or ice - did it in gloves and crampons. Great fun but got absolute drenching in all day rain
with Niels
Climbed on second with guide. No snow or ice - did it in gloves and crampons. Great fun but got absolute drenching in all day rain
with Niels
Hidden 27 Jan AltLd O/S
jackhelliwell 18 Jan -
jonzza 18 Jan 2nd O/S
Johnathan 18 Jan Lead O/S Awesome route. Bluebird day. Yellow avalanche risk on descent gully, so v careful descent
Awesome route. Bluebird day. Yellow avalanche risk on descent gully, so v careful descent
Hidden 18 Jan AltLd O/S
Rory Abernethy ? Jan AltLd O/S not bad
not bad
Hidden ?? Lead
mountain musher 16 Nov, 2019 Lead rpt
Nicholas Mansell 16 Nov, 2019 2nd Fun route very exposed
with Tim sugers
Fun route very exposed
with Tim sugers
Hidden 4 Apr, 2019 Lead
Hidden 4 Apr, 2019 2nd
Robertgiddy 24 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S Lots of loose stuff when no consolidation to hold it together
Lots of loose stuff when no consolidation to hold it together
Jezz0r 20 Mar, 2019 AltLd First couple of pitches rather wet dry tooling
with cbyers
First couple of pitches rather wet dry tooling
with cbyers
cbyers 20 Mar, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Jezz0r
with Jezz0r
Sam Waddy 17 Mar, 2019 AltLd
with RW99
with RW99
RW99 17 Mar, 2019 AltLd O/S
niallsash 16 Mar, 2019 AltLd rpt
IanMcC 9 Mar, 2019 AltLd Omitted Pitch 1.
with colb
Omitted Pitch 1.
with colb
colb 9 Mar, 2019 AltLd
with IanMcC
with IanMcC
Hidden 8 Mar, 2019 Lead O/S
Hidden 6 Mar, 2019 AltLd
cj_borderer ? Mar, 2019 -
Hidden 11 Feb, 2019 AltLd
Harrison_Connie 10 Feb, 2019 2nd
Dave Payne 10 Feb, 2019 Lead Top pitch after Cutlass
with olekemi
Top pitch after Cutlass
with olekemi
olekemi 10 Feb, 2019 2nd rpt Last pitch. Sideways into it, once again.
Last pitch. Sideways into it, once again.
metrorat 10 Feb, 2019 Lead rpt Started via jacknife. Firm snow lower down but buried in useless powder on the last two pitches. Slow going.
Started via jacknife. Firm snow lower down but buried in useless powder on the last two pitches. Slow going.
Hidden 7 Feb, 2019 2nd
rockstott 5 Feb, 2019 AltLd Day 2 WCI Assessment
Day 2 WCI Assessment
tomwalton 4 Feb, 2019 AltLd Swam up the gully to what we thought was the starting groove. Enjoyable 3 pitches to the top and an abseil down the eastern side. Will be back to attempt a more direct start.
Swam up the gully to what we thought was the starting groove. Enjoyable 3 pitches to the top and an abseil down the eastern side. Will be back to attempt a more direct start.
Thomas Jones 4 Feb, 2019 AltLd Found this hard after yesterday's epic.
Found this hard after yesterday's epic.
simonsnake77 4 Feb, 2019 2nd dog A big day out, be prepared for a long slog on the hike in. Backed off the direct start, due to having to dig out every placement. Well lead by Henry, and some enjoyable exposed climbing in winter conditions, lots of snow on the ledges and spindrift everywhere. Exciting, ab back down the opposite gully.
with Ben Symonds
A big day out, be prepared for a long slog on the hike in. Backed off the direct start, due to having to dig out every placement. Well lead by Henry, and some enjoyable exposed climbing in winter conditions, lots of snow on the ledges and spindrift everywhere. Exciting, ab back down the opposite gully.
with Ben Symonds
Robbie Blease 3 Feb, 2019 AltLd O/S Crazy weather! Good route though.
with Aaron
Crazy weather! Good route though.
with Aaron
innes 3 Feb, 2019 AltLd O/S
with Aaron Tregellis Hodgson, Robbie Blease
with Aaron Tregellis Hodgson, Robbie Blease
jpc1 2 Feb, 2019 AltLd
with Daisyduke, Tom
with Daisyduke, Tom
Hammy-G 2 Feb, 2019 2nd
with carr0t
with carr0t
Hidden 2 Feb, 2019 AltLd
carr0t 2 Feb, 2019 -
with Hammy-G
with Hammy-G
Hidden 1 Feb, 2019 -
Goodstuff 29 Jan, 2019 AltLd O/S Lead first and last pitches. Great little climb with nice positions and interest throughout.
with Cam Bevan
Lead first and last pitches. Great little climb with nice positions and interest throughout.
with Cam Bevan
Ben21 20 Jan, 2019 Lead O/S Powder over rock, but turf was frozen. Should have brought more small nuts.
with Dan Mccerie, Jamie kingross
Powder over rock, but turf was frozen. Should have brought more small nuts.
with Dan Mccerie, Jamie kingross
Midgetgem 18 Jan, 2019 2nd Powdery snow but fab route. Felt harder given the conditions
with James gordon
Powdery snow but fab route. Felt harder given the conditions
with James gordon
Matthew Glenn 16 Jan, 2019 Lead O/S
with Ella
with Ella
Schanielawright 15 Jan, 2019 2nd
with Matt Glenn
with Matt Glenn
Rank_Bajin 28 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
with jackob
with jackob
jackob 27 Mar, 2018 AltLd Did direct start would be a 3* route on any other crag!
Did direct start would be a 3* route on any other crag!
Arisdad 27 Mar, 2018 -
BrianShackleton 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd Excellent consolation route having turned back from the upper part of Coire an Ciste which had unsolidated new snow underfoot and poor visibility. Busy, however, so kept pitches short!
with HelenB
Excellent consolation route having turned back from the upper part of Coire an Ciste which had unsolidated new snow underfoot and poor visibility. Busy, however, so kept pitches short!
with HelenB
Jon Greening 25 Mar, 2018 Lead Quite snowy, good route.
with Dan
Quite snowy, good route.
with Dan
HelenB 25 Mar, 2018 AltLd Did this after giving up on the planned ice route with just 8 wires... Busy with 4 teams at the bottom together and a team ahead had apparently knocked down a huge block... Did in 5 pitches to work around another pair - I led a short first pitch onto the rock and the fourth.
with BrianS
Did this after giving up on the planned ice route with just 8 wires... Busy with 4 teams at the bottom together and a team ahead had apparently knocked down a huge block... Did in 5 pitches to work around another pair - I led a short first pitch onto the rock and the fourth.
with BrianS
Hidden 23 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S
Rhys Deane 17 Mar, 2018 AltLd
with James
with James
maninblack 14 Mar, 2018 AltLd O/S nice route , IV not V. abseiled down west gully back to start
with ree1064
nice route , IV not V. abseiled down west gully back to start
with ree1064
Hugh Simons 10 Mar, 2018 AltLd rpt
with Appleby
with Appleby
Hidden 10 Mar, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 19 Feb, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 18 Feb, 2018 2nd
morsy 12 Feb, 2018 AltLd
with andy buckley
with andy buckley
andybuckley 12 Feb, 2018 AltLd Shorter and easier than expected
with morsy
Shorter and easier than expected
with morsy
Pete_Stewart 10 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S In 4 pitches. Led 2 and 4
In 4 pitches. Led 2 and 4
Samuel Wainwright 3 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 2 Feb, 2018 AltLd
wi11 2 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Si
with Si
gregorhogg 7 Jan, 2018 2nd
with Karol Wojcik
with Karol Wojcik
ConorWalter 4 Jan, 2018 - First Scottish Winter climb w/guide Andy. Perfect conditions !
with Culann
First Scottish Winter climb w/guide Andy. Perfect conditions !
with Culann
Ruaraidh ? Jan, 2018 2nd
Swiss Tony ??, 2018 -
Andrew Wilson 29 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Very loose in places. Probably more fun when plastered in Neve. Still enjoyable, did the direct start.
Very loose in places. Probably more fun when plastered in Neve. Still enjoyable, did the direct start.
mattnuttall 29 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S Lot of yesterdays fresh powder has scoured off overnight. Lean and tough today, especially lower chimney which would not have been out of place on a V. No neve in cracks but turf frozen and on the upside gear easier to find.
Lot of yesterdays fresh powder has scoured off overnight. Lean and tough today, especially lower chimney which would not have been out of place on a V. No neve in cracks but turf frozen and on the upside gear easier to find.
SJPowderham1 1 Dec, 2017 AltLd Lead latter piches
Lead latter piches
martinbettridge06 1 Dec, 2017 Lead O/S
Nathan Adam 25 Nov, 2017 AltLd rpt Approach over snow covered scree and rock/slabs was horrible. A bit loose to start with but surprisingly frozen otherwise.
Approach over snow covered scree and rock/slabs was horrible. A bit loose to start with but surprisingly frozen otherwise.
GlennWatson 22 Mar, 2017 AltLd
with Ken Christie
with Ken Christie
Ken Christie 22 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 8 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
Mattlloyd10 6 Mar, 2017 -
BillyR 4 Mar, 2017 2nd
Stuart Hurworth 4 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route! So much fun packed into the mid-section. Slightly dodgy feeling snow ramp traverse up to the start, felt nervy (should have just walked round)! Then did climb from base of gully rather that straight up. Lead mid pitch, steep at start but excellent placements everywhere! Abbed from slightly below summit, think move up there is tricky, maybe that and the start are the 5 bit?.
Great route! So much fun packed into the mid-section. Slightly dodgy feeling snow ramp traverse up to the start, felt nervy (should have just walked round)! Then did climb from base of gully rather that straight up. Lead mid pitch, steep at start but excellent placements everywhere! Abbed from slightly below summit, think move up there is tricky, maybe that and the start are the 5 bit?.
Andrew Holden 4 Mar, 2017 AltLd
with Tom Cox
with Tom Cox
JohnnyBoy59 4 Mar, 2017 AltLd Carried on from Jacknife
with David McLean
Carried on from Jacknife
with David McLean
Hidden 4 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S
MaccMark 4 Mar, 2017 AltLd
Tom Cox 4 Mar, 2017 AltLd
67hours 3 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S P1,3. Did it in 3.
P1,3. Did it in 3.
Rob.bonnet 3 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Used the direct start, crack is dry. Did a traverse with insitu nut to reach the crack, a few crux moves then it gets easier, good Gears. P2 is very nice too, easy approach and descent makes it a good choice for a short day, combines nicely to E ridge
Used the direct start, crack is dry. Did a traverse with insitu nut to reach the crack, a few crux moves then it gets easier, good Gears. P2 is very nice too, easy approach and descent makes it a good choice for a short day, combines nicely to E ridge
alastairbegley 3 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Enjoyable route. Lead p2.
with 67hours
Enjoyable route. Lead p2.
with 67hours
RWW 2 Mar, 2017 2nd Lots of fresh snow
Lots of fresh snow
Tom.Priestley 2 Mar, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2. Did the proper P1 which wasn't that bad and the whole thing was very well protected. Great climb!
Led P2. Did the proper P1 which wasn't that bad and the whole thing was very well protected. Great climb!
Hidden 2 Mar, 2017 Lead
Hidden 1 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
Finn Curry 28 Feb, 2017 2nd
with Paul Warnock
with Paul Warnock
Hidden 23 Feb, 2017 Lead
FH 23 Feb, 2017 2nd
with SP
with SP
Lakeslina 13 Feb, 2017 2nd 2nd proper winter climb, ab-ed into Douglas Gap and descended the other side, then round to ice smears for two pitches of pure ice. Then raced downhill, CIC hut to bus on 45 minutes. First back not last.
2nd proper winter climb, ab-ed into Douglas Gap and descended the other side, then round to ice smears for two pitches of pure ice. Then raced downhill, CIC hut to bus on 45 minutes. First back not last.
sparkybatteryboy 13 Feb, 2017 2nd
niallsash 11 Feb, 2017 Lead Plenty of snow but of little use.
Plenty of snow but of little use.
Piglet69 11 Feb, 2017 2nd
rob16 10 Feb, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 4 Feb, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 14 Jan, 2017 2nd
Hidden 9 Jan, 2017 Lead
Andrew Nelson ??, 2017 -
abbeywall 19 Nov, 2016 AltLd
with FM
with FM
Chris Hannaby 19 Nov, 2016 2nd O/S
Jameskelly200 2 Apr, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Neil butterton, Andy Wilson
with Neil butterton, Andy Wilson
7toes 30 Mar, 2016 -
LanceSolf 29 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Euan Whittaker
with Euan Whittaker
Hidden 28 Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
Stuart the postie 28 Mar, 2016 AltLd Unfriendly snow conditions, didn't want to go higher!!
with Andy Clark
Unfriendly snow conditions, didn't want to go higher!!
with Andy Clark
ian hendy ? Mar, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Stephen Ashworth
with Stephen Ashworth
benwmorgan 23 Feb, 2016 2nd
ian.ross.bnc 23 Feb, 2016 2nd
Hidden 22 Feb, 2016 Lead rpt
cmars89 21 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S Covered in fresh snow, route selection took a while. -20C with the windchill. Proper Scottish conditions!
Covered in fresh snow, route selection took a while. -20C with the windchill. Proper Scottish conditions!
Hidden 17 Feb, 2016 2nd
nation1 17 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with Dave Payne
with Dave Payne
Dave Payne 10 Feb, 2016 AltLd Good conditions
Good conditions
andrzej kierzek 8 Feb, 2016 Lead O/S My first route on Ben. Started from West Gully to do grade III route. The crux on our first pitch still felt harder then III. Last pitch was scary in unconsolidated snow.
with Kj
My first route on Ben. Started from West Gully to do grade III route. The crux on our first pitch still felt harder then III. Last pitch was scary in unconsolidated snow.
with Kj
CaelanB 6 Feb, 2016 AltLd O/S started from a little up west gully as we'd traversed the douglas gap having plodded half the way around the ben to find any routes in safe nick
started from a little up west gully as we'd traversed the douglas gap having plodded half the way around the ben to find any routes in safe nick
elliptic 6 Feb, 2016 AltLd
with Andy D., Max
with Andy D., Max
andy dunn 6 Feb, 2016 2nd
Hidden 4 Feb, 2016 2nd O/S
sacdenouilles ? Feb, 2016 AltLd
with J F Philippe, D Pemble
with J F Philippe, D Pemble
wchan 31 Jan, 2016 2nd O/S
olekemi 31 Jan, 2016 AltLd rpt In from Jacknife. Again.
with Mark G
In from Jacknife. Again.
with Mark G
murray 29 Jan, 2016 2nd O/S
Just Will 29 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S
with murray
with murray
davkeo 28 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S
lindsay yule 17 Jan, 2016 AltLd Great route. Interesting all the way to the end. Good gear but some loose block in places.
with David Coburn
Great route. Interesting all the way to the end. Good gear but some loose block in places.
with David Coburn
Hidden 16 Jan, 2016 2nd
Hidden 16 Jan, 2016 Lead rpt
Mark Stevenson 14 Jan, 2016 AltLd rpt
with Mark Riley
with Mark Riley
Hannah Evans 14 Jan, 2016 AltLd
with Steve Holmes
with Steve Holmes
Hidden 13 Jan, 2016 AltLd rpt
El_Dave_H 13 Jan, 2016 2nd Skipped first (hardest?) pitch.
Skipped first (hardest?) pitch.
joeflan 12 Jan, 2016 Lead O/S First route on the Ben
First route on the Ben
Mark Stevenson 12 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S
with David Keogh
with David Keogh
DundeeDave 10 Jan, 2016 AltLd Covering of snow made placements and gear tricky to find. Great day no wind, 0c and great visibility.
Covering of snow made placements and gear tricky to find. Great day no wind, 0c and great visibility.
Hugh Simons 6 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together the whole way. More like III, 4 (given III in SMC Ben Nevis book) as there is loads of protection possible and there isn't really a tech 5 move anywhere. Really fun route!
Moved together the whole way. More like III, 4 (given III in SMC Ben Nevis book) as there is loads of protection possible and there isn't really a tech 5 move anywhere. Really fun route!
Martin McKenna - UKC u 6 Jan, 2016 AltLd O/S Moved together
Moved together
duncanbutler ??, 2016 2nd
ian hendy ??, 2016 AltLd rpt
guitarshane 27 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
Chrismith 27 Dec, 2015 AltLd O/S
Nathan Adam 25 Dec, 2015 Lead rpt Good fun with good hooks, nice way to get rid of the early season cobwebs!
Good fun with good hooks, nice way to get rid of the early season cobwebs!
dakidunn 15 Apr, 2015 AltLd
with BnB
with BnB
michaelb1 2 Apr, 2015 AltLd Absolutely superb, good runners and belays. One very hard section
with M Tighe
Absolutely superb, good runners and belays. One very hard section
with M Tighe
Jordangask 24 Mar, 2015 2nd
mark-abz 2 Mar, 2015 2nd
with Michael B, Matt S
with Michael B, Matt S
robin8234 1 Mar, 2015 AltLd
Peter Metcalfe 28 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with K Mckay, Pete Glasper
with K Mckay, Pete Glasper
Hidden 28 Feb, 2015 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 21 Feb, 2015 AltLd
with loz01
with loz01
Siobhann 19 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
Stani49 17 Feb, 2015 2nd First route on the Ben!
with Francis Blunt
First route on the Ben!
with Francis Blunt
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 2nd
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 -
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
ADConway 3 Feb, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 3 Feb, 2015 2nd
Hidden 2 Feb, 2015 AltLd
stephen ashworth ? Feb, 2015 AltLd
with Jack southward
with Jack southward
SamHallam 27 Jan, 2015 2nd
pamvdb17 25 Jan, 2015 2nd
with Ollie
with Ollie
oliverk 24 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
with Pam
with Pam
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
BnB 20 Jan, 2015 -
Hidden 18 Jan, 2015 2nd O/S
Hidden 18 Jan, 2015 2nd
mim tiller 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
John McKenna 17 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
mjsmith1973 17 Jan, 2015 2nd
with S.Ritson, C.Marlow
with S.Ritson, C.Marlow
stutoms 9 Jan, 2015 2nd
Hidden 3 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S
kbow265 ? Jan, 2015 -
aebewick ??, 2015 2nd O/S
plain kitten ??, 2015 -
adie84 ??, 2015 -
Hidden 13 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S
NeilGriffiths 13 Dec, 2014 AltLd Delightful. Right choice for a grotty day.
with Adam
Delightful. Right choice for a grotty day.
with Adam
Nathan Adam 8 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S Direct start will be hard until there is some more consolidation so we gained the ridge from the ramp up West Gully. First tech 4 lead. A wee bit spicy without the use of frozen turf or neve, but good hooks all the way so not much bother.
Direct start will be hard until there is some more consolidation so we gained the ridge from the ramp up West Gully. First tech 4 lead. A wee bit spicy without the use of frozen turf or neve, but good hooks all the way so not much bother.
connor 8 Dec, 2014 AltLd O/S first route of the season
first route of the season
connor ? Dec, 2014 AltLd with nathan
with nathan
Hidden ? Apr, 2014 2nd O/S
David Horwood 29 Mar, 2014 -
Rob N 24 Mar, 2014 -
liamo333 24 Mar, 2014 -
with Rob N
with Rob N
colenn 24 Mar, 2014 -
Andrew Holden 23 Mar, 2014 2nd
LogieNick 20 Mar, 2014 2nd Poor conditions of rising temperatures, rain and high gusting winds meant options very limited for 4th day of guided climbing based at CIC hut. Route only just in condition - semi-frozen turf with numerous loose blocks. Tricky move exiting short chimney on last pitch. Descent from Douglas Boulder via abseil to Douglas Gap and further abseil down top half of East Gully.
with Glenmore Lodge Ice & Mixed Climbing Ben Nevis
Poor conditions of rising temperatures, rain and high gusting winds meant options very limited for 4th day of guided climbing based at CIC hut. Route only just in condition - semi-frozen turf with numerous loose blocks. Tricky move exiting short chimney on last pitch. Descent from Douglas Boulder via abseil to Douglas Gap and further abseil down top half of East Gully.
with Glenmore Lodge Ice & Mixed Climbing Ben Nevis
davebrox 18 Mar, 2014 Lead Luke
Luke
jgordon75 7 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S First winter climb in too many years. Organisation shocking. Conditions very windy. 1 rope for party of 3. Snow a bit soft. Much fun had by all.
with Sam Raphael, Aaron Brown
First winter climb in too many years. Organisation shocking. Conditions very windy. 1 rope for party of 3. Snow a bit soft. Much fun had by all.
with Sam Raphael, Aaron Brown
Hidden 6 Mar, 2014 Lead O/S
mzchambers 3 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Will R
with Will R
Scott Rankin 3 Mar, 2014 AltLd
with Martin Mckenna
with Martin Mckenna
Martin McKenna - UKC u 3 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S
Stuart Wildman 1 Mar, 2014 2nd Lots of snow covering most of the holds.
with Gooders
Lots of snow covering most of the holds.
with Gooders
Hidden 24 Feb, 2014 Lead
LucaC 19 Feb, 2014 - Melty ice and snow. Backed off.
with Rich, Little Ben
Melty ice and snow. Backed off.
with Rich, Little Ben
Hidden 17 Feb, 2014 2nd O/S
Hidden 16 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
masa-alpin u 11 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S Started at the groove/crack next to the West Gully - tech 6 (Yuki's hardest climb so far), at least today. The rest was V, 4 - technically not hard, but sparse and hard-gained protections. It took 1 hour from the CIC hut just to get to the starting point of P1, primarily because of the deep powder snow. Starting after 2pm meant we finished climbing in the dark in 4 pitches in total. Abbed off all the way to the foot of East Gully.
with Yuki S
Started at the groove/crack next to the West Gully - tech 6 (Yuki's hardest climb so far), at least today. The rest was V, 4 - technically not hard, but sparse and hard-gained protections. It took 1 hour from the CIC hut just to get to the starting point of P1, primarily because of the deep powder snow. Starting after 2pm meant we finished climbing in the dark in 4 pitches in total. Abbed off all the way to the foot of East Gully.
with Yuki S
2010_graham 9 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Olle K
with Olle K
Hidden 8 Feb, 2014 AltLd
olekemi 8 Feb, 2014 AltLd O/S Sideways into it and finished the Route. Lots of snow.
with Iain M, Graham D
Sideways into it and finished the Route. Lots of snow.
with Iain M, Graham D
Hidden 7 Feb, 2014 AltLd
DStrawbridge 4 Feb, 2014 AltLd good climb, snow wasn't great. Fun climb though.
with SUColdo
good climb, snow wasn't great. Fun climb though.
with SUColdo
SUColdo 4 Feb, 2014 AltLd Good interesting climbing all the way. Wasn't 180m, probably 120m
Good interesting climbing all the way. Wasn't 180m, probably 120m
Hidden 4 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
RKernan 3 Feb, 2014 Lead Loads of (good) snow. Start was banked out, probably a fair bit easier than usual.
with Kora Przybyszewska
Loads of (good) snow. Start was banked out, probably a fair bit easier than usual.
with Kora Przybyszewska
Iain_L_32 3 Feb, 2014 2nd
The_Boy_ODwyer ? Feb, 2014 AltLd
Hidden ? Feb, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 29 Jan, 2014 2nd
phil64 20 Jan, 2014 Lead rpt wild day on the ben good safe option
wild day on the ben good safe option
Andrew Sloan 19 Jan, 2014 AltLd O/S Really nice route. Bomber neve and good pro. Topped out and then down climbed back to ab point.
with Steve Grove
Really nice route. Bomber neve and good pro. Topped out and then down climbed back to ab point.
with Steve Grove
Hidden 19 Jan, 2014 -
arose 12 Jan, 2014 Lead Loads of Snow. Saw some big avalanches in Number 3 Gully
with Alfie Tipler
Loads of Snow. Saw some big avalanches in Number 3 Gully
with Alfie Tipler
Hidden 11 Jan, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 1 Jan, 2014 2nd O/S
Brannock 1 Jan, 2014 Lead O/S With Stu, powder tastic wading, nice route though, good choice for a poor weather day.
With Stu, powder tastic wading, nice route though, good choice for a poor weather day.
Steve Woollard 20 Dec, 2013 2nd
with Kenny
with Kenny
Matt Reed 19 Mar, 2013 AltLd
with Chris C, Darren
with Chris C, Darren
Harry Holmes 17 Mar, 2013 Solo O/S
Roberttaylor 17 Mar, 2013 Lead O/S Started up the groove, avoiding P1. Douglas Gully W was a bit avalanchey and absolutely choked with powder.
with Thijs Lubbers
Started up the groove, avoiding P1. Douglas Gully W was a bit avalanchey and absolutely choked with powder.
with Thijs Lubbers
Hidden ? Mar, 2013 AltLd
mikehenesy ? Mar, 2013 Lead β Done it before but this time conditions made it a different proposition, a lot harder! Weather came in as predicted in the afternoon, got pretty grim. Chris did a heroic job getting us off the top, hairy! Hard work getting back to the hut ok from there. Three folk didn't, in the summit shelter until helo'd of 14:00hrs!!
with Chris Lodge
Done it before but this time conditions made it a different proposition, a lot harder! Weather came in as predicted in the afternoon, got pretty grim. Chris did a heroic job getting us off the top, hairy! Hard work getting back to the hut ok from there. Three folk didn't, in the summit shelter until helo'd of 14:00hrs!!
with Chris Lodge
James Gordon u ? Mar, 2013 -
Tim Sparrow 10 Feb, 2013 AltLd Upward spindrift kind of day.
with Geoff Thomas
Upward spindrift kind of day.
with Geoff Thomas
Hidden 6 Feb, 2013 2nd O/S
Flett ? Feb, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ? Feb, 2013 -
Ralfy 29 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Paul Beacall
with Paul Beacall
The Bad Cough 29 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Mark Booker
with Mark Booker
GaryK 29 Jan, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
dav_713 15 Jan, 2013 -
with Davie Scott
with Davie Scott
Hidden 15 Jan, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 14 Jan, 2013 AltLd
metrorat ??, 2013 AltLd
with Brendan Bailey
with Brendan Bailey
Neil Mackenzie 27 Dec, 2012 AltLd dnf took a fall after some 'turf' ripped. must be more careful! shaken but not broken so we abbed off
with jamsey
took a fall after some 'turf' ripped. must be more careful! shaken but not broken so we abbed off
with jamsey
010paw 15 Dec, 2012 2nd O/S Very good climb, nice one to get back into the swing of things. First winter route this season!
with Guy Stephens, calum mcphee
Very good climb, nice one to get back into the swing of things. First winter route this season!
with Guy Stephens, calum mcphee
libby.southgate 1 Dec, 2012 AltLd O/S Marcus led P1, I did 2 and 3
with MarcusP
Marcus led P1, I did 2 and 3
with MarcusP
Northern Mountain Monkey 3 Apr, 2012 - Nice route for a day low down the mountain.
Nice route for a day low down the mountain.
Hidden 10 Feb, 2012 2nd
Hidden 7 Feb, 2012 2nd
Jim Walton 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd dnf Did the direct start but got caught behind 3 people who had hum-bugged us by starting further up the gully and cutting in above us (missing out the best bit), abbed off due to time constraints.
with Rob Davies
Did the direct start but got caught behind 3 people who had hum-bugged us by starting further up the gully and cutting in above us (missing out the best bit), abbed off due to time constraints.
with Rob Davies
robertmichaellovell u 30 Jan, 2012 AltLd nice route, makes for a good short day if energy levels are low
with Lawrence
nice route, makes for a good short day if energy levels are low
with Lawrence
wence 30 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29 Jan, 2012 AltLd
Bobby Pearson 29 Jan, 2012 2nd O/S Cloud base around 1000m, SW winds 45mph. Sheltered on ridge. Good consolidate snow pack. Missed the first pitch and it was in good nick so probably grade 4 max, however good route that is convenient
with Andy Brown, Mike Henesey
Cloud base around 1000m, SW winds 45mph. Sheltered on ridge. Good consolidate snow pack. Missed the first pitch and it was in good nick so probably grade 4 max, however good route that is convenient
with Andy Brown, Mike Henesey
Hidden 29 Jan, 2012 Lead
mikehenesy 29 Jan, 2012 2nd O/S Andy lead what we thought was going to be a IV/V but it was more like a III/IV maybe? We missed out the first bit though,Guy and Ade reconed that bit was pretty tasty. Lovely climbing though, and performed as a collective! Us three, Guy Ade and Lloydy and Bill.
with andybrown114, Bobby Pearson
Andy lead what we thought was going to be a IV/V but it was more like a III/IV maybe? We missed out the first bit though,Guy and Ade reconed that bit was pretty tasty. Lovely climbing though, and performed as a collective! Us three, Guy Ade and Lloydy and Bill.
with andybrown114, Bobby Pearson
Hidden ? Jan, 2012 Lead dnf
sheffieldchris ??, 2012 -
Hidden 14 Mar, 2011 Lead
Elsier 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Proper Scottish winter day out! Great route for the conditions, but busy!
Proper Scottish winter day out! Great route for the conditions, but busy!
KeithAlexander 12 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S great route. skipped the first pitch by starting further up the gully.
with Elsier
great route. skipped the first pitch by starting further up the gully.
with Elsier
Hidden 9 Mar, 2011 2nd O/S
Tim Sparrow 21 Feb, 2011 AltLd
with Pete Robinson
with Pete Robinson
Hidden 16 Feb, 2011 Lead
Hidden 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd
Hidden 14 Feb, 2011 AltLd O/S
rylett 10 Feb, 2011 2nd
with Paul Knowles
with Paul Knowles
Hidden 7 Feb, 2011 2nd O/S
chmckay 30 Jan, 2011 2nd
with Graham Boistelle
with Graham Boistelle
IanMcC 23 Jan, 2011 Lead Pitch 1 only- spindriftastic!
with ade
Pitch 1 only- spindriftastic!
with ade
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Jimmy1976 4 Apr, 2010 2nd O/S Started via gully. Lots of powder on route so lots of searching round for good hooks. Last moves the most dificult, having to use tiny edges
with Kenny
Started via gully. Lots of powder on route so lots of searching round for good hooks. Last moves the most dificult, having to use tiny edges
with Kenny
IJHunt ? Mar, 2010 2nd O/S
WilliamBurnside 28 Feb, 2010 AltLd
with Robert Manby
with Robert Manby
mikelaing ? Jan, 2010 2nd
with Ian Whitehead
with Ian Whitehead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
thebat 13 Dec, 2009 AltLd
with Ontour
with Ontour
joeydurkin 29 Mar, 2009 AltLd O/S Scary Descent
with Dave Gleave
Scary Descent
with Dave Gleave
t_stork 28 Mar, 2009 AltLd Interesting all the way
with Andy Ruck
Interesting all the way
with Andy Ruck
John Roe 10 Mar, 2009 Lead An excellend day in por conditions
with Ant Downing
An excellend day in por conditions
with Ant Downing
Hidden ? Mar, 2009 Lead
kleky ? Mar, 2009 2nd O/S Rusty led me & Adam on 2 half ropes.
with MRT Valley: Rusty
Rusty led me & Adam on 2 half ropes.
with MRT Valley: Rusty
peebles boy ? Mar, 2009 2nd
Ken Applegate 5 Feb, 2009 AltLd Great route, an interesting combination of rock and winter climbing. Led the 1st pitch. The route is nowhere near 180m as per the guidebook! We thought it was more like 120m.
with Dave Kirby, Alex Wheldon
Great route, an interesting combination of rock and winter climbing. Led the 1st pitch. The route is nowhere near 180m as per the guidebook! We thought it was more like 120m.
with Dave Kirby, Alex Wheldon
critchlg 28 Jan, 2009 2nd O/S During the Kimber week
with Spike
During the Kimber week
with Spike
rob1 24 Jan, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Neil Loydon
with Neil Loydon
Hidden 15 Dec, 2008 AltLd
The Bad Cough 7 Apr, 2008 AltLd O/S
with John Nesbitt
with John Nesbitt
Hidden 28 Mar, 2008 AltLd O/S
Sandy P 21 Mar, 2008 AltLd
with LukeO
with LukeO
sasmojo 8 Mar, 2008 2nd Pete lead all pitches.
with Pete (WCMG), Jamie Evans
Pete lead all pitches.
with Pete (WCMG), Jamie Evans
Martyn ? Mar, 2008 2nd O/S
with James Williams
with James Williams
dustbuddy 5 Feb, 2008 Lead O/S
with Paul
with Paul
MarkDavies36 ??, 2008 Lead O/S
glaramara 1 Jul, 2007 Lead
with m clerk
with m clerk
Hidden ? Mar, 2007 AltLd
Hidden 20 Jan, 2007 AltLd
tubby two ??, 2004 AltLd
with Colm
with Colm
NickJH ? Feb, 2000 Lead O/S
graeme gatherer ??, 2000 -
Robin Clothier ??, 2000 -
akhughes ??, 2000 -
Small and weak ? Mar, 1999 AltLd Graded III when we did it...
Graded III when we did it...
Hidden ? Feb, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 Lead
andyb211 ??, 1988 -
with Andy Moir, P. Jaimeson, Clients, George Rowley
with Andy Moir, P. Jaimeson, Clients, George Rowley
andyb211 ??, 1988 -
with Andy Moir, P. Jaimeson, Clients, George Rowley
with Andy Moir, P. Jaimeson, Clients, George Rowley
andyb211 ??, 1988 -
with Andy Moir, P. Jaimeson, Clients, George Rowley
with Andy Moir, P. Jaimeson, Clients, George Rowley
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Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 48
Votes cast 43
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Raeburn's Route (Pedestal Variation)

Grade: IV 5 ***
(Bidean nam Bian - Stob Coire nan Lochan)