Rockfax Description
285m. One of the finest mountain rock climbs in Scotland. It takes a committing rising traverse giving superb climbing with tremendous exposure. It is not as popular as its better known neighbours which only adds to its attraction. The wet streak on the main slab dries early in the day but returns by mid to late afternoon. Start right of Route II Direct, 3m right of a large brownish right-facing corner with some large boulders at its foot.
1. 25m 5a Pull over an awkward bulge into a widening groove, and continue to a flake belay.
2. 15m 4b Move left into a parallel groove and climb this until 5m below the overlap at the top of the central slabs.
3. 15m 4a Traverse right along the slab under the overlap to a crack and climb this to a belay.
4. 45m 5a Descend slightly, then traverse right across the slab, passing a possible stance, to reach a descending traverse which leads to a belay above pitch 3 of Centurion.
5. 25m 4c Climb the crack above, then traverse right to a belay under the overlaps.
6. 30m 4b Traverse right under the overlaps on excellent small flake holds to easier ground. Climb this to a large terrace above the chimneys.
7. 10m From the left end of the terrace, move left to an area of shattered rock beneath an undercut groove.
8 to 10. 120m 4c Climb the groove then a series of corners and slabby grooves to the top.
FA J.R.Marshall, J.Stenhouse, 1 Jun 1961 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
**** in Ben Nevis, SMC

Ticklists

Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , HVS Adventures , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , Big Routes 2020 , Gary's Ticklist HVS-E2 , Scottish Four Star Multi Pitch Routes to E2 (and Old Man Of Hoy) , 4 Star Scottish rock , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Wired Scottish Rock Climbs **** , 100 Classic Climbs | Scotland Central & Southern Highlands , Jimmy Marshall Routes , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist , Picos Preparation

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