Rockfax Description
420m. An outstanding route of alpine proportions. The climb is neither totally clean or solid, and in anything but perfect dry conditions the route is likely to be significantly harder than the grade suggests. Choose a dry sunny day to savour one of the finest mountaineering expeditions in the country. Start at an easy-angled ochre-coloured rib protruding down from the face about 30m left of Zero Gully.
1, 2. 60m The rib to a small platform.
3. 45m 4a High above the left end of the platform is the distinctive Great Slab Rib. A steep rib leads up to its base. Step round the rib on the left, then move up to the base of the Great Slab Rib. Alternatively, climb the rib direct or the groove on its right side. Both variations are harder (4c).
4. 30m 4a Traverse onto the crest of the Great Slab Rib and climb it by parallel cracks to reach a recess and belays. A superb pitch.
5. 45m Move out and up right, then climb more easily to the Basin.
6. 40m Cross the Basin and climb to the foot of the Second Slab Rib, a prominent feature which bounds the top right-hand side of the Basin.
7. 40m 4b Climb the rib by its slabby left edge. High up, turn a steepening on the left wall (4c if climbed direct), then regain the crest above. Climb an awkward wall on either the left or right side.
8 to 11. 160m Continue on easier rocks, with much variation possible. The original route trends up left aiming for the base of another great slab, some 60m high. This can be bypassed on the right to reach a niche, where a short pitch leads to the top of the slab. Easier climbing then leads to the crest of North-East Buttress.
FA J.H.B.Bell, J.D.B.Wilson, 14 Jun 1940 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A classic meandering line, best climbed after a few dry days and with good visibility. Start near the bottom of Minus One Gully and scramble up right for 60m until roughly half way between Minus One Gully and Zero Gully. This brings you to a point left of some overhangs 70m up and at the base of a wide slabby rib, underneath a more defined rib (Great Slab Rib) which has a white speckled sidewall to the left.
1. 45m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the crest or left hand side to a stance.
2. 30m 4b Traverse right onto the rib and climb this via parallel cracks to a small grassy ledge.
There now follows a long rising traverse up and right for about 100m across The Basin, mostly moving together except for a couple of moves up grooves to the base of the Second Slab Rib.
3. 40m 4b Climb the slab on the left edge avoiding a steepening by a detour left (4c direct). At the top of the slab move slightly right over clean rock trusting the holds until a small hanging slab is gained and belay above.
Now take a left rising traverse up ribs and corners passing behind a large block for about 50m until at the bottom right hand side of a large slab.
Take another left rising traverse for about 50m across the bottom of a series of slabs via cracks and corners.
Go up by a mossy corner to a large mossy terrace below the final headwall.
Either step down right from the terrace and climb flakes to easy ground (looks dirty but holds are clean) OR
Traverse easily left to the foot of the 40ft Corner and finish up North East Buttress.

JHB Bell, JDB Wilson 14/Jun/1940.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch , Scottish Classic Rock , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , MIA logbook must haves! , Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!) , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Big Routes , The Great Gumclub Ticklist , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , BoC Scottish Summer , Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Cal's 'Alpine Feel' Climbs , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Scotland wishlist , Scotland climbing

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