420m, 11 pitches. A classic meandering line, best climbed after a few dry days and with good visibility. Start near the bottom of Minus One Gully and scramble up right for 60m until roughly half way between Minus One Gully and Zero Gully. This brings you to a point left of some overhangs 70m up and at the base of a wide slabby rib, underneath a more defined rib (Great Slab Rib) which has a white speckled sidewall to the left.
1. 45m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the crest or left hand side to a stance.
2. 30m 4b Traverse right onto the rib and climb this via parallel cracks to a small grassy ledge.
There now follows a long rising traverse up and right for about 100m across The Basin, mostly moving together except for a couple of moves up grooves to the base of the Second Slab Rib.
3. 40m 4b Climb the slab on the left edge avoiding a steepening by a detour left (4c direct). At the top of the slab move slightly right over clean rock trusting the holds until a small hanging slab is gained and belay above.
Now take a left rising traverse up ribs and corners passing behind a large block for about 50m until at the bottom right hand side of a large slab.
Take another left rising traverse for about 50m across the bottom of a series of slabs via cracks and corners.
Go up by a mossy corner to a large mossy terrace below the final headwall.
Either step down right from the terrace and climb flakes to easy ground (looks dirty but holds are clean) OR
Traverse easily left to the foot of the 40ft Corner and finish up North East Buttress.Feedback
1. 45m 4a Climb the slabby rib on the crest or left hand side to a stance.
2. 30m 4b Traverse right onto the rib and climb this via parallel cracks to a small grassy ledge.
There now follows a long rising traverse up and right for about 100m across The Basin, mostly moving together except for a couple of moves up grooves to the base of the Second Slab Rib.
3. 40m 4b Climb the slab on the left edge avoiding a steepening by a detour left (4c direct). At the top of the slab move slightly right over clean rock trusting the holds until a small hanging slab is gained and belay above.
Now take a left rising traverse up ribs and corners passing behind a large block for about 50m until at the bottom right hand side of a large slab.
Take another left rising traverse for about 50m across the bottom of a series of slabs via cracks and corners.
Go up by a mossy corner to a large mossy terrace below the final headwall.
Either step down right from the terrace and climb flakes to easy ground (looks dirty but holds are clean) OR
Traverse easily left to the foot of the 40ft Corner and finish up North East Buttress.
JHB Bell, JDB Wilson 14/Jun/1940.
Ticklists
Classic Rock, The 100 Best UK VS routes?, Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish Classic Rock, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes, MIA logbook must haves!, Mountain Rock (big mid grade summit routes on rock!), The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Big Routes, The Great Gumclub Ticklist, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, BoC Scottish Summer, Rab 'Pocket a Prize' Competition: Cal's 'Alpine Feel' Climbs, Scottish Rock Benchmarks
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Route of Interest
The Chasm (Summer)
Grade: VS ***(Buachaille Etive Mor)