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Rockfax Description
One of Dartmoor's finest. A gritstonesque climb that packs in some athletic and technical moves. Start on a flat-topped block below the left end of the huge overhang in the centre of the main face. Pull up directly into the corner, left of the overhang, and place some good gear before swinging out to the arete on a horizontal break just above the lip of the overhang. Gain a flake on the face around the arete and make a couple of tricky moves to leave it and enter the base of a good crack. Follow the crack to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
50'. Surmounting the big roof at half height, using obvious hanging flake on the left end of the overhang. Pull round the flake (good photo opportunity) and reach a second flake on the exposed face. Crank up on this flake to gain a crimp allowing you to pull into a vertical crack. Follow this to near the top where balanced moves allow you to gain the finishing jug out to the right.

Pat Littlejohn, Dave Garner 23/Apr/1976.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, South Devon & Dartmoor First Ascents in 1976, Moving to Devon, The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.

Feedback

User Date Notes
myrddinmuse 20 Jul Show βeta
βeta: For me, the beta on the pumpy traverse is self obvious- less so is the beta for standing on the flake. Get the left hand on the arete to balance and reach up to the sidepull with the right. As for the question of which foot on the flake... Tragically I don't remember.
 
Show beta
βeta: For me, the beta on the pumpy traverse is self obvious- less so is the beta for standing on the flake. Get the left hand on the arete to balance and reach up to the sidepull with the right. As for the question of which foot on the flake... Tragically I don't remember.

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Repeated
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Route of Interest

Quatermass

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Lundy)