UKC

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

125m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A wild and committing trip into one of the UK's most outrageous sections of sea cliff. The loss of a large block on the third pitch has altered it, and at the time of writing it is not known to have had a free ascent (although it has been aided). Start 8m to the right of Moonraker's tidal ledges at a short corner below a roof.
1) 5b, 20m. Traverse rightwards between two bands of overhangs to a niche, then pull up right to easier ground. Continue traversing to a red corner below a steep wall and belay.
2) 6b, 15m. Climb up to the roof (peg) and make a wildly committing move up and right. Continue steeply rightwards on jugs to a restricted belay in a red corner.
3) 6a?, 16m. Rockfall has altered this pitch and it has not been climbed free at the time of writing. Make a difficult move from the belay to join a traverse line (this is where a block has been lost from) which is followed out around the lip to a constricted rest. Traverse down and rightwards for 5m to a belay.
4) 6a, 26m. Traverse back left to where some difficult moves reach a cramped hanging wall. Keep moving leftwards past a bush to join Dreadnought at its corner. Follow the corner and traverse rightwards under the roof to the Dreadnought belay.
5) 5b, 28m. Climb up Dreadnought's hanging groove then move right at the capping overhang to reach a shallow groove. Ascend this to another shallow groove which leads to the left end of an oblong roof. Traverse rightwards beneath this to a short groove which is followed to a small stance.
6) 5b, 20m. Move left and climb through the overhang to gain an awkward crack, ascend this and continue direct to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Not re-climbed since rockfall in 2018.

FA. Andy Meyers, Mick Fowler 15/Nov/1982.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Route of Interest
Caribbean Blue

Grade: E6 6a ***
(Sanctuary Wall)

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