Rockfax Description
A semi-sport pitch up the smooth groove on the right side of the face. To reach the fence belay at the top of the route requires a 60m rope. Start up and left of a small tree at the left side of a short section of low wall. Climb up a rib on the left and at 3m move right 2m to a ledge. Gain a hole up on the left and then proceed up past a couple more holes to one with a thread in place. From a peg out to the right, move past a thread to an overlap and then onto the initial bolt. Follow the superb technical groove in its entirety, mainly on its right wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent big pitch with sustained climbing up a striking groove. A thorough clean-up and the addition of four bolts in 2017 has generated renewed interest. The groove can feel greasy and is best avoided in damp conditions. Consensus is that a standard rack will suffice, with plenty of quickdraws. If the pitch is split by an intermediate belay, the 2nd should belay to the right (facing in), near the peg, to avoid any potential rockfall down the groove. As a single pitch, 60 m ropes needed to reach the fenceposts.

Bruce Woodley, Kevin Phillips 15/Aug/1985.

Ticklists

The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200.

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