UKC

Restricted Access

It is important that climbers wanting to deepwater solo on these crags MUST call Brixham Maritime Rescue Co-ordination Centre on (01803) 882 704 before descending to the base of the cliffs. Climbers have caused a number of false call outs in the past - this creates significant problems for the rescue service and may jepordise future access on the Nature Reserve.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Berry Head is becoming a mecca for deep water soloing, but it is also an important breeding site for many seabirds. Historically, access was completely restricted during breeding but thanks to the efforts of local climbers, the BMC and Torbay Coast and Countryside Trust, the restriction has been made variable. This means it will be lifted as soon as nesting has been completed. The variable restriction has been granted on the condition that the following is adhered to:

1) The Great Cave and pitch 1 of Rainbow Bridge is still covered by the restriction (1st March to 31st July) and NO ACCESS is permitted. This is because the birds frequent the large platform. The standard approach for Rainbow Bridge (and The Great Cave) crosses this platform and will disturb the birds so climbers must choose one of the following options: a) Abseil from the metal post en route to The Great Cave (just beyond a red access notice) to an in-situ thread at the end of pitch 1. b) Down-climb HVS rock just to the left (looking out) of the post. This is not recommended for those who don't know the route.

2) The final Terminal Zawn (pitch 11) is still restricted. A marker just before this shows the extent of the ban. Climbers should exit up VS territory above the marker.

3) Access restrictions still apply to the following: - White Rhino Tea Buttress (Barnacle Traverse Continuation) - The Oz Wall - The Ledges above the Oz wall, beyond the Terminal Zawn. - The Great Cave and Bismark Wall. Markers have been positioned at both ends of the "open" section and these will show whether or not you are allowed on the traverse. This can be checked by contacting the Berry Head Rangers office (01803 882619).

Please contact the ranger if you are confused about cliff accessibility. A few other considerations: If you fall into the sea (during the restricted nesting season) getting out is now much more problematic as you must NOT get out at the Great Cave ledge (doing so would disturb the nesting birds). Those concerned by this should opt to abseil in (see b above) - doing this allows you to leave a rope through the in-situ thread at the base of the abseil to facilitate pulling out of the sea....or make the big swim to the ‘ Red Walls’ area.

38m. One of Devon’s finest. Fully retro-bolted, it takes a stupendous line up the exposed white pillar. The climbing is technical and tenuous and is no pushover at the grade.

FA. Bruce Woodley, K.Poulter Aug/1985.

Ticklists

The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon - Berry Head , Cream first! , Devon 6's

Feedback

User Date Notes
Trickyw 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Contains Beta (tick box in edit didn't work)! 15 bolts and the lower off. It can be dirty and very slight lichenous. Don't climb if seagulls nesting in holes - you might regret the attention of the warden or the birds. You are allowed to use the right hand arete, no really you are. Shouldn't be any need for gripper clips, all bolts were placed with a rest and reasonable handholds in mind. There is a small rock option near the arete if you want it before stretching back in to clip by 7th or 8th bolt(?) and are using 2 ropes (need 80m rope to lower or 2x 60m ropes to ab). 15 bolts, plus the lower off. Remember, regardless of big bolts, it's still an old quarry which really wants to carry on shedding rock. Take it steady and enjoy the feeling of security that the first ascensionists only dreamt of!
Show beta
βeta: Contains Beta (tick box in edit didn't work)! 15 bolts and the lower off. It can be dirty and very slight lichenous. Don't climb if seagulls nesting in holes - you might regret the attention of the warden or the birds. You are allowed to use the right hand arete, no really you are. Shouldn't be any need for gripper clips, all bolts were placed with a rest and reasonable handholds in mind. There is a small rock option near the arete if you want it before stretching back in to clip by 7th or 8th bolt(?) and are using 2 ropes (need 80m rope to lower or 2x 60m ropes to ab). 15 bolts, plus the lower off. Remember, regardless of big bolts, it's still an old quarry which really wants to carry on shedding rock. Take it steady and enjoy the feeling of security that the first ascensionists only dreamt of!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Berry Head Quarry

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Wave

Grade: 6c S0 ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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