UKC

38m. One of Devon’s finest. Fully retro-bolted, it takes a stupendous line up the exposed white pillar. The climbing is technical and tenuous and is no pushover at the grade.

FA. Bruce Woodley, K.Poulter Aug/1985.

Ticklists

The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Devon - Berry Head , Cream first!

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User Date Notes
Trickyw 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Contains Beta (tick box in edit didn't work)! 15 bolts and the lower off. It can be dirty and very slight lichenous. Don't climb if seagulls nesting in holes - you might regret the attention of the warden or the birds. You are allowed to use the right hand arete, no really you are. Shouldn't be any need for gripper clips, all bolts were placed with a rest and reasonable handholds in mind. There is a small rock option near the arete if you want it before stretching back in to clip by 7th or 8th bolt(?) and are using 2 ropes (need 80m rope to lower or 2x 60m ropes to ab). 15 bolts, plus the lower off. Remember, regardless of big bolts, it's still an old quarry which really wants to carry on shedding rock. Take it steady and enjoy the feeling of security that the first ascensionists only dreamt of!
Show beta
βeta: Contains Beta (tick box in edit didn't work)! 15 bolts and the lower off. It can be dirty and very slight lichenous. Don't climb if seagulls nesting in holes - you might regret the attention of the warden or the birds. You are allowed to use the right hand arete, no really you are. Shouldn't be any need for gripper clips, all bolts were placed with a rest and reasonable handholds in mind. There is a small rock option near the arete if you want it before stretching back in to clip by 7th or 8th bolt(?) and are using 2 ropes (need 80m rope to lower or 2x 60m ropes to ab). 15 bolts, plus the lower off. Remember, regardless of big bolts, it's still an old quarry which really wants to carry on shedding rock. Take it steady and enjoy the feeling of security that the first ascensionists only dreamt of!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Berry Head Quarry

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Voting
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cavewoman

Grade: 6c ***
(Berry Head - Coastguard Cliffs)

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