55m. A big, left-trending line to the right of Dirt Eater (DE), well-endowed with thoughtful/absorbing climbing. Sparse protection and some cracked rock add up to a nerve-wracking lead to mid. height. From left-centre below the wide bay, zigzag up stepped & slabby rock with well-spaced Tricam-only protection to a replica quarryman’s spike out left. Head back right to a ledge, big cam, mantle up leftwards. Above is a grey wall and a small head-height ledge. Fiddle in a crucial small wire high right and gain a tenuous standing position on the ledge. Make a long step left to another footledge, bold, then climb the vague pillar above, staying right of DE's direct line (mini-wires initially, then good cam slot out left). Pass a small bay with drillhole & cracked rock and gain a rightwards-rising calcitic crack. Above is a bomber drillhole thread, pass that and continue to the upper headwall. Step right to cracks and climb direct to a protruding peg (new, 2021). Bear left to the summit, fine exposure, joining DE for the last few moves.

FAs note: Original aim was to follow the centre of the bay, but lack of holds and gear forced the line leftwards, close to DE. First ascent was a redpoint after abseil cleaning and identification of optimum gear placements, including a hook. Appropriate on-sight grade very uncertain, suggested top end E3 due to general seriousness up to mid. height, tech grade 5b/c.

S Wooster, C Kumar 15/Aug/2023.

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