UKC

60m. After a lengthy slumber, the Dirt Eater awoke in 2021 - worth checking out while it’s in good condition. A quality climb, with four extended, absorbing sections and superb exposure on the finishing tower. The distinct crux at the top of the orange wall is now well-protected by two pegs. Above, the recently climbed line trends right at the grassy ledge and negotiates stepped rock to the left of a red crystalline seam (see photo), essential blue tricam (or inverted wire) in a shothole to start. The entry to the fine groove up right of Yellow Rurties belay is protected by the high peg on the belay (long sling on left rope) and a thread well to the right. Even so, it is bold - a key small/med. cam placement up left is the initial target, a peg above is the next. Leave the groove by tricky moves up right of the peg. Apart from a med. hex. (WC7 yellow) and the tricam, it goes on small & med. gear, so save on the weight and go for it in one big pitch (60 m ropes may still not quite reach the old quarry bolts down right at the top, a belay rope can be pre-placed).

FA. Bruce Woodley, Ian Day, N.Oxton Sep/1983.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Dexter JW 6 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Route looks fantastic now, found 2 pegs at the top of the route, one either side of the pinnacle, would allow for 50s to be used, if needed. Pegs on route look excellent. Onto the wishlist! Thank you crag gardener!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route looks fantastic now, found 2 pegs at the top of the route, one either side of the pinnacle, would allow for 50s to be used, if needed. Pegs on route look excellent. Onto the wishlist! Thank you crag gardener!
PaulTanton 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Good route now it’s clean. Hard move at the top of the initial crack is probably the crux, but it keeps on coming after that. The top wall is superb. Get on it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good route now it’s clean. Hard move at the top of the initial crack is probably the crux, but it keeps on coming after that. The top wall is superb. Get on it

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Guidebooks for Berry Head Quarry

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Route of Interest
Storm Wall Direct

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Lundy)

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