Rockfax Description
100m. This takes a bold, direct line up the left side of the long pillar which projects slightly from the centre of the face. Start about 20m right of a prominent chimney (West Chimney), below a short crack and a short hanging chimney.
1. 35m 6a Climb the crack to a slab. Move left and up to a steep groove. Make a few difficult moves up the groove before it is possible to swing right and up to a poor stance at a groove junction (possible belay). Climb up right and follow a black groove to a tricky mantelshelf onto a small ledge below a short, hanging chimney. Enter the chimney by an awkward move and, at its top, step left to a small ledge.
2. 30m 5b Move back right and climb the sloping ramp in a superb position to a small hooded recess. Exit slightly left, then go up to a ledge. Continue to the foot of a prominent corner.
3. 35m 5c Climb the corner to the roof. The best finish is to step left and continue up the corner to its top before moving right to finish up a groove. Alternatively, if the corner is damp, follow the original line by moving right from the roof to a ledge then climb cracks up the finishing groove (5b). .Hamilton, D.Cuthbertson (FFA pitch 1)
FA D.Cuthbertson, D.Mullin (FFA full route), Summer 1978 © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Great Mountain Crags of Scotland , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Gary's Ticklist E3-E5 , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5 , 4 Star Scottish rock , Gary Latter's Scottish Rock Ticklist

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