3 pitches. The obvious chimney line just left of Hourglass Gully. Start at the bottom left of Hourglass gully. Traverse left along a ledge to the foot of the the chimney which is climbed in three pitches. The first is straightforward, while the second contains an awkward but small chockstone. The crux is the last pitch a huge chockstone on the left wall and then take the mixed ground above. A squeeze route behind may be an alternative in lean conditions for the anorexic.