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60m, 4 pitches. Ollie and I climbed this yesterday, Sunday 16th. Snow below is still very soft. The guidebook description is mince. You can solo the first snow face, with ice it would be even easier. Belay at the top of the snow at the foot of the rock buttress. Climb the left crack up to a chimney with a little overhang which provides an interesting step right to finish on a ledge and belay. This is the first ledge referred to in the guidebook not the second which we assumed. Climb right of this. I tried the left slab / chimney / crack and failed to find a foothold anywhere and gave up. The right ascent leads to the second ledge. From here grunt your way up the chimney to the left and then onto the ridge where you can belay just below out of the wind. ( Tim Clark, 18 Jan 2010)

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High III
Mid III
Low III
High II/III
Mid II/III
Low II/III
High II
Mid II
Low II
Votes cast 8
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Forcan Ridge, Double Direct

Grade: II/III ***
(The Saddle)