250m, 7 pitches.
Well equipped, but cams are useful on most pitches. The name of the climb is written in red at the bottom. Start just left of the big incut that separates this from the other routes.
P1 40m 5: go up the slabby groove, then steeply R and then steeply up to the belay. P2 30m 5+: easy up to the twin cracks, climb crack on R, then easy to thread belay. P3 25m 4+: up the slab, then traverse R and slightly down 10m to belay. P4 25m 5: up the steep crack. P5: 20m 4+: continue up the cracks more easily. P5 20m 4+: climb the cracked slab, trending R. (P4 & 5 can be run together with 50m ropes). P6 35m 5+/6a: climb the steep crack (crux), trend L round the slanting roof, then easily up to the belay. P7 3 40m: scramble easily to the top (sling belay - nothing in situ).
Descent: scramble down 20m to small col and take the steep path on the R.
P1 40m 5: go up the slabby groove, then steeply R and then steeply up to the belay. P2 30m 5+: easy up to the twin cracks, climb crack on R, then easy to thread belay. P3 25m 4+: up the slab, then traverse R and slightly down 10m to belay. P4 25m 5: up the steep crack. P5: 20m 4+: continue up the cracks more easily. P5 20m 4+: climb the cracked slab, trending R. (P4 & 5 can be run together with 50m ropes). P6 35m 5+/6a: climb the steep crack (crux), trend L round the slanting roof, then easily up to the belay. P7 3 40m: scramble easily to the top (sling belay - nothing in situ).
Descent: scramble down 20m to small col and take the steep path on the R.
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Route of Interest
Dente per Dente
Grade: 6a ***
(Spazzacaldera)