UKC

Climbs 332
Rocktype Gritstone
Altitude 267m a.s.l
Faces SW

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"Pensioner's at play" he said © Josh Willett

Crag features

Birchen remains one of the most popular venues in the Peak due to its friendly atmosphere and good collection of low-grade routes. The place has always been a favourite with groups and this long-standing popularity has led to the wearing of many of the already rounded holds. Quite a number of the routes have slippery and awkward starts but get yourself going and things often ease rapidly with height. Summer weekends can be extremely busy, but if you leave the main section and head rightwards to the more secluded buttresses, you will probably find a bit of solitude.

The majority of routes at Birchen have names of a nautical nature linked to the monument on the cliff top, erected to celebrate Nelson's victory at the Battle of Trafalgar back in 1805.

Approach notes

Birchen runs along the crest of the moor 3km east of Baslow Village. The usual approach is from the National Trust car park by the Robin Hood Inn, though on busy days the field across the road is also available. Walk up the road to a stile on the left and a sandy track that leads to the rocks in 10 mins. Keeping left at the only fork leads straight to the main section of cliff, whereas heading right leads towards Kismet Buttress. It is possible to approach from the Gardom's parking spot.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 27/Aug/2024

Access Advice

No access issues reported. Please do not use the Obelisk as an anchor.

Group Advice

Eastern Moor Partnership who manage the crag require that groups of over fifteen contact them in advance of a visit:

Please do not use the Obelisk as a belay or abseil anchor or organise group abseils down the Orpheus Wall. All group leaders should familiarise themselves with BMC guidelines for group use, see here, http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Download.aspx?id=350

Click here for RAD Access Notes
Last update: 04/06/2024  
Updated by UKC: 28th November, 2023 12:18

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Another heads up, uni taster sessions happening here 14th + 15th October.
edprince - 11/Oct/17
Just a heads up, my University society will be running our taster sessions here the weekend 1st + 2nd October. If there are any issues at all, feel free to get in touch at [email protected]
edprince - 26/Sep/16
my favourite crag.
Stanners - 11/Sep/15
Surprised yesterday to have to pay for the Car Park. £2.50 up to 4 hours, £4 all day. Free to NT or RSPB members.
Dale Berry - 27/Oct/13
There is a pay car park and a field across the road. pick which you prefer. wet days I'd say the £4 will be worth it.
Lukem6 - 27/Oct/13
The is a problem on the back of the royal sovereign boulder that starts lying down under the overhang pulls through to a slot from slopers on the lip of the overhang and then on to the top with a tiny mono on the top. Does anyone no the name or grade? Thanks
ceturnock - 09/Sep/13
There's a large block halfway up Gun-cotton Groove (VD) on Kismet Buttress which is quite loose. Avoiding using this probably puts it up a grade. Perhaps no longer a "good beginners' climb".
Howard J - 04/Aug/10
Just a quick update... Took a youth group from my Church there this weekend and had a fantastic time. We climbed to the right of the monument, using "On Peak Rock" as a guide. First of all, there's about 500m of delicious rock to the right of the monument, which are not covered by the guidebook :( We camped at the Eric Byne memorial site by the Robin Hood Inn. It's run by the really old couple again, after being run by the Peak authority for a while. It's £2.50 pppn, with toilets and fresh water. They now have a bin area which is new since I was last there (2003). Still no campfires, but where can you these days :( Still a superb crag, unbeatable for groups, families, beginners and first-time outdoor lead climbers.
rich in wales - 20/Oct/07
Victory Vice the V Diff on the Kismet Buttress has got bats living in it just a warning!!!
David Hollyer - 30/May/06
I love this crag - Gives us VS climbers the chance for great low grade soloing. Lots of lovely classically grit moves on a small scale.
Reds - 08/Mar/04
Don\'t miss the great bouldering opportunities to be had on the three large boulders on top of the crag. Each boulder has its name carved into the rock and is named after the Flagships of Nelson\'s fleet at the battle of Trafalgar.
Michael Hunt - 20/Jan/02
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