UKC

105m, 6 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An all-time classic with a memorable final pitch and varied climbing to reach it. Start at a wide crack on the left of a pinnacle at the base of the crag.
1) 23m. Climb the crack to a ledge and walk right to a tree. Move up the wall above it to another ledge. A short corner gains a stance at a block. An alternative start takes the vertical off-width crack on the right of the pinnacle.
2) 30m. Take the corner above to gain some slabs that lead rightwards to a stance under a corner.
3) 10m. Climb the corner then make some difficult moves left to gain a stance on a slab.
4) 20m. Traverse left and down the slab to a wall. Steep moves up and across the wall on good holds gain ledges and a belay.
5) 13m. Move up to the shoulder of the pinnacle and a very exposed belay.
6) 15m. Follow the corner up the prow and make a final pull left to gain easier territory and the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Walk up through trees.
1. Where you find the base of the crag, climb short corner on left - traverse along big ledge - climb up groove/crack on right until large block belay is found (trending left).
2. Climb straight then trending right to drop into a shattered corner.
3. Climb up the broken corner (not that easy) until a step left brings you onto a big slab (known locally as the church roof) - good belay.
4. traverse left and down whilst partner takes classic photos - climb a broken groove and wander up easy ground to belay on the pinnacle (breath taking view) - not a brilliant belay but good enough.
5. From the base of the pinnacle, queue up for hours to climb the short, steep ribbed wall to the top.
I've done this route in 40 mins (when we had the crag to ourselves) and also in 6 hours when it was jam-packed. Be warned, bring some food and drink.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe , CUMC Ticklist , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , M&T Ticklist , 2016 Targets , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , FRCC Mega Classics , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks) , Nuts of Legends , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , 2020/21 Trips , STAUMC Ticklist , James and Leah's Multipitch madness (nice climbs) , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Trad Warrior 2021 , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Rock Stars Trad Routes , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Lake District Ultimate Ticklist , Chasing Stars across the UK , British Rock Tour April '24 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
Jholder 26 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Got a large silver cam stuck above pitch 4's hanging belay, do not suggest trying to get as off route, but if anyone does please give me a shout!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Got a large silver cam stuck above pitch 4's hanging belay, do not suggest trying to get as off route, but if anyone does please give me a shout!
milanboez 28 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant! Amazing positions and very steady climbing (easy for Severe). Linked pitch 1 and 2 with a 50m rope, and 4 and 5. Belay below pitch 6 = best belay position ever! Gotta try VS direct line next time.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant! Amazing positions and very steady climbing (easy for Severe). Linked pitch 1 and 2 with a 50m rope, and 4 and 5. Belay below pitch 6 = best belay position ever! Gotta try VS direct line next time.
James Harker 12 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely amazing route with varied climbing in beautiful surroundings. The very last move to top out is insanely polished with ludicrous exposure for the grade. Only spotted the jug after
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Absolutely amazing route with varied climbing in beautiful surroundings. The very last move to top out is insanely polished with ludicrous exposure for the grade. Only spotted the jug after
EHall72 10 Jul, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Great Climb - on walk in look out for path breaking off to the left and keeping by the stream (path should always point directly towards the crag). Recommend its climbed early morning on very hot day to stay out of the sun. Positive feed and hands downclimbing on P4 traverse (extend your gear). We linked up pitches 5 & 6 (belaying on the top of P5 on the pinnacle would have been great). Awesome steep climbing and step up left on last pitch. Highly recommended route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great Climb - on walk in look out for path breaking off to the left and keeping by the stream (path should always point directly towards the crag). Recommend its climbed early morning on very hot day to stay out of the sun. Positive feed and hands downclimbing on P4 traverse (extend your gear). We linked up pitches 5 & 6 (belaying on the top of P5 on the pinnacle would have been great). Awesome steep climbing and step up left on last pitch. Highly recommended route!
Donnacurnow 7 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Beautiful climb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Beautiful climb
Jon Macmillan 4 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth its 3 stars.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth its 3 stars.
gtaylor997 2 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Stick to the stream, not the path, on the approach
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Stick to the stream, not the path, on the approach
Louisjackson01 14 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Amazing climb without any traffic on a glorious day. Great introduction to lake district climbing.
Show beta
βeta: Amazing climb without any traffic on a glorious day. Great introduction to lake district climbing.

Logged Ascents

3823 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Black Crag (Borrowdale)

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 755 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 358
Votes cast 351
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
DWS
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Treasure

Grade: S ***
(Harrison Stickle)

Loading Notifications...