An all-time classic with a memorable final pitch and varied climbing to reach it. Start at a wide crack on the left of a pinnacle at the base of the crag.
1) 23m. Climb the crack to a ledge and walk right to a tree. Move up the wall above it to another ledge. A short corner gains a stance at a block. An alternative start takes the vertical off-width crack on the right of the pinnacle.
2) 30m. Take the corner above to gain some slabs that lead rightwards to a stance under a corner.
3) 10m. Climb the corner then make some difficult moves left to gain a stance on a slab.
4) 20m. Traverse left and down the slab to a wall. Steep moves up and across the wall on good holds gain ledges and a belay.
5) 13m. Move up to the shoulder of the pinnacle and a very exposed belay.
6) 15m. Follow the corner up the prow and make a final pull left to gain easier territory and the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Walk up through trees.
1. Where you find the base of the crag, climb short corner on left - traverse along big ledge - climb up groove/crack on right until large block belay is found (trending left).
2. Climb straight then trending right to drop into a shattered corner.
3. Climb up the broken corner (not that easy) until a step left brings you onto a big slab (known locally as the church roof) - good belay.
4. traverse left and down whilst partner takes classic photos - climb a broken groove and wander up easy ground to belay on the pinnacle (breath taking view) - not a brilliant belay but good enough.
5. From the base of the pinnacle, queue up for hours to climb the short, steep ribbed wall to the top.
I've done this route in 40 mins (when we had the crag to ourselves) and also in 6 hours when it was jam-packed. Be warned, bring some food and drink.
Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Heather's Multipitch Climbs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, CUMC Ticklist, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, M&T Ticklist, 2016 Targets, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, FRCC Mega Classics, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives', The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50, 2020/21 Trips, STAUMC Ticklist, James and Leah's Multipitch madness (nice climbs), Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Trad Warrior 2021, Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge, Rock Stars Trad Routes
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