Climbs 57
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 334m a.s.l
Faces all
The Pyramid with Hound Tor in the background © gordy767
Crag features
As of 2024 many old problems have been given proper names for the publication of the guidebook. Problem numbers for Javu and Climbers Club Dartmoor (2017) are given in descriptions for all problems.
Lower Leighon Tor (known to climbers as Black Hill Boulders). Tucked away a stone's throw from the main climbing areas, this secluded bouldering venue has enough to keep you occupied for a while and works well as a link up with Smallacombe Rocks, which are a further 10-15 minute walk over the hillside. It is usually a lonely place to go for a boulder in a very beautiful setting.
The mid-grade f6B-6C boulder problems are excellent and the walk-in is short with the only drawback being the amount of bracken that can build up on the hillside and around the lower boulders in the summer; beware the ticks.
Approach notes
Approach from the B3387 Bovey Tracey to Widecombe road. Once out of the trees the road flattens out at the top of the hill (about 3 miles from Bovey). Take an exceptionally tight right turn towards Manaton. If you reach the turning for Haytor Vale you've missed it. Follow the lane out across the moor for 1.5 miles. As the lane starts descending there is a bridleway on the left and a cattle grid and parking for a couple of cars. Please park considerately.
Walk up the bridle path for a short way and then take a faint path to the left across the hillside. The boulders come into view on the right in about 5 mins. The best landmark is the pyramid boulder.
| lovely little venue with beautiful views. likely to be on your own on absorbing and quality problems. the crack on rowes arete seems to stay pretty damp and manky after rain unfortunatly, but 'the crack' was in good nick after heavy rain. great spot. w.pettet-smith - 06/Feb/10 |
Climbs at this crag
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