UKC

18m.

Rockfax Description
The neat slanting groove is a swine to enter. Climb steeply to its base and then improvise; if all else fails try it on your back. © Rockfax

FA. Ivan Waller 1928.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/3/ A Decade of Expansion, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge, CUMC First Ascents, Stonnis Allstars, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
nate 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: was warming up on this and thought it was a HVD when I started. Was thinking "damn black rocks grades are hard!" (first time climbing there, no guide) too polished to solo with comfort, and felt good when over the corner....
βeta?
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βeta: was warming up on this and thought it was a HVD when I started. Was thinking "damn black rocks grades are hard!" (first time climbing there, no guide) too polished to solo with comfort, and felt good when over the corner....
benjit 29 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I tried laying on my back and it felt horrible! In any case it is such a great move forwards!
βeta?
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βeta: I tried laying on my back and it felt horrible! In any case it is such a great move forwards!
Nick Smith - Climbers 10 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun! Even E2 leaders have struggled to work out the move (ahem ;)
βeta?
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βeta: Great fun! Even E2 leaders have struggled to work out the move (ahem ;)
Pythonist 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The move from the huge flake (jam for stability) to the arrete is glorius, and should be recommended to anyone leading VS. The panicked foot-jam return to the back corner is also quite fun...
βeta?
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βeta: The move from the huge flake (jam for stability) to the arrete is glorius, and should be recommended to anyone leading VS. The panicked foot-jam return to the back corner is also quite fun...
CragHead 19 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Very awkward to get yourself past the groove. It was so easy afterward.
βeta?
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βeta: Very awkward to get yourself past the groove. It was so easy afterward.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 93
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 87
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Nozag

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Castle Naze)
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