UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
This fine crack was left out of the earliest guides as it was thought to be unjustifiably dangerous! Now it gives pleasant climbing to an awkward and rapid exit left. Much harder if you can't jam, but then it would be wouldn't it? © Rockfax

FA. J.W.Puttrell 1900.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, Puttrell's Progress, Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Eastern Peak Grit 100 VD- VS, Hard Grit history, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+, Peak Rock/1/ The 1st Peak District Tigers., A Severe Day Out in 1949 at BLACK ROCKS, Stonnis Allstars, Top 50 Peak Cracks, Laycock's List - the original 1913 gritstone graded list, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS, Pete's Peak Treats, Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 1

Feedback

User Date Notes
victim of mathematics 16 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Bloody difficult. Without a doubt the hardest thing I've ever lead without falling off. I like jamming a lot, but the overhangingness and total lack of footholds for the leftwards traverse made the top section of the crack a horrific battle. I have no skin left.
βeta?
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βeta: Bloody difficult. Without a doubt the hardest thing I've ever lead without falling off. I like jamming a lot, but the overhangingness and total lack of footholds for the leftwards traverse made the top section of the crack a horrific battle. I have no skin left.
Ackbar 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Having seconded High Neb and lead this, I am slowly making my way through the climbs in "Hard Grit" :) One of the best HS's I've done. Was expecting it to be much harder due to the "unjustifiable" label.
βeta?
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βeta: Having seconded High Neb and lead this, I am slowly making my way through the climbs in "Hard Grit" :) One of the best HS's I've done. Was expecting it to be much harder due to the "unjustifiable" label.
Duz Walker 7 Mar, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Went on this as a "Severe". Would have placed it at the hardest severe I have done. Lovely first crack though, irresistable jams, but followed by a greasy lichenous squirm to finish.
βeta?
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βeta: Went on this as a "Severe". Would have placed it at the hardest severe I have done. Lovely first crack though, irresistable jams, but followed by a greasy lichenous squirm to finish.
nate 17 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: nice S 4a solo, did not think hs. you might just need to do more jamming.
βeta?
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βeta: nice S 4a solo, did not think hs. you might just need to do more jamming.
dangerousoldfool 9 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: This was an early lead for me based on the grade in the old BMC guide. I was too pumped to complete the final leftward exit so then had to downclimb and clean the route. Arms looked like popeye at the end. Next time I'll try it in fatter boots !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was an early lead for me based on the grade in the old BMC guide. I was too pumped to complete the final leftward exit so then had to downclimb and clean the route. Arms looked like popeye at the end. Next time I'll try it in fatter boots !
Pythonist 4 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Single comment - This route is almost easier in regular trainers...
βeta?
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βeta: Single comment - This route is almost easier in regular trainers...

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 86
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 82
Votes cast 75
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Paradise Wall

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)
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