UKC

Rockfax Description
The thinner line of cracks on the right-hand side of the slab is the equal of its better known neighbour, but a good deal harder. Start 5m right of the start of Sacre Coeur at a thin crack. Take the crack to a small overlap. Move up and follow thin technical cracks with difficulty to a better crack on the right. Continue up this crack and finish up another to gain the summit of the rock. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis

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User Date Notes
Katiek 10 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Super technical made harder by being rather wet! But such brilliant climbing. Had to deploy full gecko mode. Felt like it was mainly self belief that held me on the wall! Brass offsets very helpful for the traverse which was tricky if you’re on the short side. Felt very engaged throughout, hardest I’ve tried on an E3 for a while and my feet were on fire!
βeta?
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βeta: Super technical made harder by being rather wet! But such brilliant climbing. Had to deploy full gecko mode. Felt like it was mainly self belief that held me on the wall! Brass offsets very helpful for the traverse which was tricky if you’re on the short side. Felt very engaged throughout, hardest I’ve tried on an E3 for a while and my feet were on fire!
Misha 27 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Kk kno
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βeta: Kk kno
Trickyw 29 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good quality, absorbing, sustained slab climbing that will burn your feet to stumps if you are unprepared for it. No path at the grade. Depending on the barnacle coverage, slipping off the first 20feet without motorcycle leathers could give your cosmetic surgeon plenty to go at. Harder by at least 1 grade than neighbouring Sacre Coeur (so high in the grade as they say - which usually means it's really the next grade up!). IMO crux is lowdown at overlap with sustained 5c climbing above, much of it protected with microwires (essential) and other marginal bits and pieces (micro cams useful) that give a spaced and only moderate sense of security.
Show beta
βeta: Good quality, absorbing, sustained slab climbing that will burn your feet to stumps if you are unprepared for it. No path at the grade. Depending on the barnacle coverage, slipping off the first 20feet without motorcycle leathers could give your cosmetic surgeon plenty to go at. Harder by at least 1 grade than neighbouring Sacre Coeur (so high in the grade as they say - which usually means it's really the next grade up!). IMO crux is lowdown at overlap with sustained 5c climbing above, much of it protected with microwires (essential) and other marginal bits and pieces (micro cams useful) that give a spaced and only moderate sense of security.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blackchurch

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 31
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shadow Walker

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Exmansworthy)

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