UKC

53m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The most popular line on the Main Cliff offers some good, well-protected climbing on its first two pitches, but the final pitch requires care. Start at the apex of the massive rubble heap.
1) 4c, 20m. Take the clean-cut, widening crack system to a ledge and belay on the left.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb steeply up into the corner on the right. Climb the corner to an overhang and pass it with difficulty to better holds and a stance on a ledge above.
3) 17m. Move up the steep corner left of the edge of the slab for 5m and place some gear before stepping right onto the vegetated slab and climbing up this with care to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
1st 2 pitches are well protected, the 3rd is quite the opposite...climb with caution!
Starting 1m left of a boulder at the top of the scree pile, in the centre of the main cliff, P1 takes the obvious crack line to its close on a vegitated ledge.
P2 steps up behind the flake to the left of the belay, to a R/wards rising break/ramp. From its R/H end, take the corner crack upto and over a capping overhang, following the crack to a big ledge belay with good nut anchors.
P3 rises left from the back corner of the ledge, up a small slab and around the arete, only to step back right around this after 7m, via a ledge to the bottom of a chossy slab. Good Hex/oversized nut at its base. Climb with extreme caution to the top where tree belays await at the back.

FAA. Bill Chevrest, Ian Duckworth..

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Culm Along , Starred routes S-E2, North Devon , Mid Grade Culm, Lizard and Devon

Feedback

User Date Notes
Trickyw 8 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: P1 & P2 probably best done as a single pitch as it straightens the line out and makes for a good route. The guide book line on the photo indicates you go diagonally up the tenuous slab of p2, but really, why would you not just move to the corner and climb it...it's fine and well protected all the way. If you're going to lead that top pitch, probably best that your second is at the P3 belay just below you (not at top of P1), under the overhang sporting a full body helmet and you have booked the proper counselling for when you need to reintergrate back into society. Or you could do what we did and bail off the tree...although treat it nicely, it's only as good as the crag it's stuck to.
Show beta
βeta: P1 & P2 probably best done as a single pitch as it straightens the line out and makes for a good route. The guide book line on the photo indicates you go diagonally up the tenuous slab of p2, but really, why would you not just move to the corner and climb it...it's fine and well protected all the way. If you're going to lead that top pitch, probably best that your second is at the P3 belay just below you (not at top of P1), under the overhang sporting a full body helmet and you have booked the proper counselling for when you need to reintergrate back into society. Or you could do what we did and bail off the tree...although treat it nicely, it's only as good as the crag it's stuck to.
HarryJohnston 20 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Gull chicks on the P2 belay, route is best avoided for a few weeks as they were clearly terrifed by our presence
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gull chicks on the P2 belay, route is best avoided for a few weeks as they were clearly terrifed by our presence
Jacob Eagles 21 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some very loose blocks at top of P1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some very loose blocks at top of P1.
Tall Oak 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is a ton of fun with parallel cracks to play around with. Second pitch is a bold and committing set of moves to gain greater height. Well done to Max for leading up and being 100% committed. Quality route, just wish there was more of it. The third pitch I can only advise is that the belayer is right out of the line of fire as the rock is $h1te. Dare I say pull on anything green instead of the rock?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is a ton of fun with parallel cracks to play around with. Second pitch is a bold and committing set of moves to gain greater height. Well done to Max for leading up and being 100% committed. Quality route, just wish there was more of it. The third pitch I can only advise is that the belayer is right out of the line of fire as the rock is $h1te. Dare I say pull on anything green instead of the rock?

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High E2
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High HVS
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High 5c
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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Seventh Dread

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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