The most popular line on the Main Cliff offers some good, well-protected climbing on its first two pitches, but the final pitch requires care. Start at the apex of the massive rubble heap.
1) 4c, 20m. Take the clean-cut, widening crack system to a ledge and belay on the left.
2) 5b, 16m. Climb steeply up into the corner on the right. Climb the corner to an overhang and pass it with difficulty to better holds and a stance on a ledge above.
3) 17m. Move up the steep corner left of the edge of the slab for 5m and place some gear before stepping right onto the vegetated slab and climbing up this with care to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
1st 2 pitches are well protected, the 3rd is quite the opposite...climb with caution!
Starting 1m left of a boulder at the top of the scree pile, in the centre of the main cliff, P1 takes the obvious crack line to its close on a vegitated ledge.
P2 steps up behind the flake to the left of the belay, to a R/wards rising break/ramp. From its R/H end, take the corner crack upto and over a capping overhang, following the crack to a big ledge belay with good nut anchors.
P3 rises left from the back corner of the ledge, up a small slab and around the arete, only to step back right around this after 7m, via a ledge to the bottom of a chossy slab. Good Hex/oversized nut at its base. Climb with extreme caution to the top where tree belays await at the back.
FAA. Bill Chevrest, Ian Duckworth..
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