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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Rockfax Description
Pull onto the slab as for Suburban Dave, then step out right and follow the slab direct. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley (solo) 10.8.1988 10/Aug/1988.

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User Date Notes
TeamHicklin 13 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First part of the day with Jerome
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First part of the day with Jerome
Alan James - Rockfax 8 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: This route was incorrectly thought to be the bolted line Sketchtastic for several years. This has now been changed however if you climbed the real Mystic Gill, which is the VS slab right of the bolts of Sketchtastic, then it is likely your route tick will have been moved to Sketchtastic. You may need to delete and re-enter the log.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route was incorrectly thought to be the bolted line Sketchtastic for several years. This has now been changed however if you climbed the real Mystic Gill, which is the VS slab right of the bolts of Sketchtastic, then it is likely your route tick will have been moved to Sketchtastic. You may need to delete and re-enter the log.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)

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