UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic rising lip traverse. Start with your left hand in a small pocket on the far left. Plenty of mats and a couple of spotters are required. Even then, it's quite bottom-clenching. A Blacknor Beach rite of passage. © Rockfax

Ticklists

RCCR , Traversing round , Rockfax Dorset Bouldering Top 50 , ROCKFAX Dorset Bouldering: Top 50 , Portland - The Boulders

Feedback

User Date Notes
KDhruev 19 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not as scary as I thought it would be, felt okay with 2 pads.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not as scary as I thought it would be, felt okay with 2 pads.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Beach

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 26 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High f7A+
Mid f7A+
Low f7A+
High f7A
Mid f7A
Low f7A
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Veasta

Grade: f7A ***
(Southwell Landslips)

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