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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

16m.

Rockfax Description
Superb fingery flowstone climbing that has a technical lower wall and a powerful finish over the bulge. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 06/Mar/1993.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Portland: Top 50 , 3 Star Portland , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Portland , The Miscampbell/Stephenson recovery tour.

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User Date Notes
Gabbott987 8 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Now very polished this route is a very contrived line.... I wouldn't give it any stars at all!
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βeta: Now very polished this route is a very contrived line.... I wouldn't give it any stars at all!
Ben Stokes 27 Sep, 2009 Show βeta
βeta: I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this.
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βeta: I have to agree with Andy - IMHO the above average quality of the headwall is not enough to make up for the poor condition of the middle section. There are routes more worthy of three stars than this.
matt perks 29 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: After clipping the 2nd (or was it 3rd) bolt, I couldn't find any way straight through. The only reasonable solution seemed to slap out left and climb up a slight groove to the overlap, moving back right in passing this overlap. Certainly good moves but I didn't think it low in the grade - fair 7b but not obvious to on-sight.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Central

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 59
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Ryme Intrinseca

Grade: 7b ***
(Blacknor Far South)

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