UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

15m.

Rockfax Description
The flaky technical groove to the smooth roof on its right. © Rockfax

FA. Neal Heanes Apr/1998.

Ticklists

Jurassic 7a , Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 30 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Much more technical than Castle Antrax and yes Pete, independent climbing for most of the route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much more technical than Castle Antrax and yes Pete, independent climbing for most of the route.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)

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