UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

17m.

Rockfax Description
Tasty tufa technicalities on the black wave. A good pitch. © Rockfax

FA. Damian Cook 01/Jun/1995.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland , Portland 7a/+

Feedback

User Date Notes
Cedric Monzali 25 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Another unsung Portland gem! Slopers, mini tufas, varied angles and big fun moves! Allez!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Another unsung Portland gem! Slopers, mini tufas, varied angles and big fun moves! Allez!
Ellis Bird 20 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Whoopsie, now missing a good jug and a small foothold, hasn’t really changed the grade though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Whoopsie, now missing a good jug and a small foothold, hasn’t really changed the grade though.
richgac 4 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Superb, varied and sustained climbing. Doesn't appear to be climbed that often .. get on it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb, varied and sustained climbing. Doesn't appear to be climbed that often .. get on it!
Ben Stokes 21 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: An excellent route with a blind and slightly reachy crux. If you have the beta it is steady for 7a+ - if you don’t it could feel desperate.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: An excellent route with a blind and slightly reachy crux. If you have the beta it is steady for 7a+ - if you don’t it could feel desperate.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Troll Team Special

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Wallsend South)

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