UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

19m.

Rockfax Description
A much-praised pitch, one of the wall's best. The blank-looking lower wall has a few good pockets and edges that are hard to see. The upper section above the break is also excellent and easier to read. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Taylor 02/May/1997.

Ticklists

Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Orange Spot Portland , Portland sub 6b , Portland , CC GUIDE (2008): Portland - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock , Portland Sendathon , Dorset 2-3* 6a's

Feedback

User Date Notes
SiobhanStraver 1 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Flake pulled off on left hand side around half way. Still climbable at the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Flake pulled off on left hand side around half way. Still climbable at the grade.

Logged Ascents

432 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 66 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 68
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Reptile Smile

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Blacknor North)

Loading Notifications...