UKC

Restricted Access

The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

2022 Peregrine nesting in  Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.

At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.

20m.

Rockfax Description
Climb In on the Killtaker to the break and traverse right to below a bulge and shallow black groove. Pull through the bulge then crimp and balance up the wall to a final easier finish around the upper overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Oxley 23/Apr/1989.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List , Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Ben Stokes 23 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Old bolts.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Old bolts.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor Far South

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Voting
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sweet Smell of Success

Grade: 7b ***
(Wallsend North)

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