UKC

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The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.

The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!   

 

15m.

Rockfax Description
Unusual. Start up the left-hand side of the arete of the descent gully. Pass three bolts until a step across the gully onto the main wall can be made via a good sloping foothold. Continue straight up and join The Lizard of Oz to finish. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start up the left-hand side of the arĂȘte of the descent gully climb past 3 bolts until a step across onto the main wall on a good slopey foothold. Continue straight up and join The Lizard of Oz to finish.

FA. Marti Hallett 24/Apr/2015.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
salexc 17 Jul, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: nice warmup for some of the stiffer routes around here - much better than some of the low-grade lunacy in the Sacred Angel area. :-O
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: nice warmup for some of the stiffer routes around here - much better than some of the low-grade lunacy in the Sacred Angel area. :-O

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Blacknor South

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Voting
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Xavier's Wall

Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)

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