The four main sections, North, Central, South and Far South have a continuous under cliff path lining them all. But it is better to access each section from either end. After the 2014 landslide destroyed the southern approach, Far South and south are best accessed from the wall quarry a top South section. Sections of the Path can be quick tricky, especially in the wet and the paths to the beach blocks tend to move around over time. Take a moment to look where you are heading to before heading straight to your chosen climbing area.
The classic Pregnant Pause a contender for Portlands longest route, is a full 30m and take a least 16 Draws. A full 60m rope will make it be always tie a knot in the end just in case!
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2022 Peregrine nesting in Blacknor Far South 'Punter's Way Area' Restrictions apply to all routes south of ' In on the Killtaker ' extending to all of the accessable routes from there.
At present there area no other active restriction along the Blacknor sections of the west coast.
Rockfax Description
Unusual. Start up the left-hand side of the arete of the descent gully. Pass three bolts until a step across the gully onto the main wall can be made via a good sloping foothold. Continue straight up and join The Lizard of Oz to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start up the left-hand side of the arĂȘte of the descent gully climb past 3 bolts until a step across onto the main wall on a good slopey foothold. Continue straight up and join The Lizard of Oz to finish.
FA. Marti Hallett 24/Apr/2015.
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Grade: 6a ***
(Coastguard South)