UKC

Access Banned

In June 2022 signage was installed by the landowner indicating that they do not wish crags on the west side of the dale (Griff's, Black & Deckout, etc.) to be climbed on.

Initially promising negotiations ultimately failed to reach a positive outcome. As such it remains the case that the owner does not grant access to west/lower Blackwell Dale. Any climber choosing to visit is therefore trespassing and should politely leave without complaint if asked to do so.

The signage appeared only after a big increase in visits, mostly to Griff's Buttress. Factors contributing to the situation included inconsiderate parking, large groups, damage to the fence/wall and the formation of an approach path which attracted non climbers to cross onto the land (presumably looking to walk down into Cheedale).

The low start to Left of Abattoir, starting on the slot and a crimpy pocket, climb through the right hand gaston to the break avoiding the large jug.

Feedback

User Date Notes
BarnabasHart 23 Apr, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: @danismail13 - sorry pal didn't spot that you'd replied! The guidebook doesn't say anything about a sit start on LofA - it does mention that starting from the sit and avoiding the jug goes at 6C. It's not my line, I just added it so I could tick the 6C version listed in the book. You could be right about the name though - not that limestone is famous for its inventive names haha!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: @danismail13 - sorry pal didn't spot that you'd replied! The guidebook doesn't say anything about a sit start on LofA - it does mention that starting from the sit and avoiding the jug goes at 6C. It's not my line, I just added it so I could tick the 6C version listed in the book. You could be right about the name though - not that limestone is famous for its inventive names haha!
danismail13 27 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: @barnabushart almost everyone starts LofA from sitting, it's extremely logical, makes for a complete line and it literally has a sit start symbol in the route description. Your climb makes for a decent eliminate but to suggest it's a low start is silly. Might be worth renaming to "left of abattoir eliminate" or "direct" or something
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: @barnabushart almost everyone starts LofA from sitting, it's extremely logical, makes for a complete line and it literally has a sit start symbol in the route description. Your climb makes for a decent eliminate but to suggest it's a low start is silly. Might be worth renaming to "left of abattoir eliminate" or "direct" or something
BarnabasHart 22 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: @danismail12 the normal version isn't a sit start - it's mislabelled on here. Normal starts from standing using a big jug, the low version starts from a sitting using the 2 slots and a heel hook.
Show beta
βeta: @danismail12 the normal version isn't a sit start - it's mislabelled on here. Normal starts from standing using a big jug, the low version starts from a sitting using the 2 slots and a heel hook.
danismail13 21 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: How is this a low start if the normal version starts sitting and this starts standing lol
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How is this a low start if the normal version starts sitting and this starts standing lol

Logged Ascents

23 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blackwell Dale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 1 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High f6C+
Mid f6C+
Low f6C+
High f6C
Mid f6C
Low f6C
High f6B+
Mid f6B+
Low f6B+
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Bouldered
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Iain's Prow

Grade: f6C ***
(Stanage North)

Loading Notifications...