UKC

61m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An equally fine, and even longer companion route to Across the Wide Blue Yonder. Take 16 quick-draws and at least five longish slings (3 for runners towards the end, 2 to belay). 1) 6c+, 26m. Follow Passion off the Pitch and the Blue Swede's Shoes to its grassy ledge. Step rightwards past a couple of pockets and then pull up to gain the flakes on the wall above. Move up again and then step across to the Sidewinder belay. 2) 7a+, 35m. No really hard moves but lots of them. A strenuous horizontal hand-traverse leads right past a couple of semi-rests to a junction with Shake, Rattle and Roll. Continue along the break to its end and follow Rattletrap, past the pocket, to gain the sharp flake and clip the next bolt. Make moves to the right and gain good holds on From Beer to Infirmity then step up to a good resting place (high bolt here – long sling useful). Follow the break across to the arete and climb the final wall of The Gingerbread House. Abseil off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An equally fine, harder and even longer companion route to Across the Wide Blue Yonder. Take 16 quick-draws and at least five longish slings (3 for runners towards the end, 2 to belay).
1. 26m F6c+ Follow Passion off the Pitch and the Blue Swede’s Shoes variant to its grassy ledge. Step rightwards past a couple of pockets and pull up to gain the obvious flakes on the wall. Move up again and then step across to the Sidewinder belay. Best to belay on slings to save rope for the next pitch.
2. 35m F7a+/b No really hard moves but lots of them. A strenuous horizontal hand-traverse leads right past a couple of semi-rests to a junction with Shake, Rattle and Roll. Continue along the break to its end and follow Rattletrap, past the pocket, to gain the sharp flake and clip the next bolt. Make moves to the right and gain good holds on From Beer to Infirmity then step up to a good resting place (high bolt here – long sling useful). Follow the break across to the arête and climb the final wall of The Gingerbread House.

Paul Clarke, Keith Morgan, Nigel Baker..

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Route of Interest

Yosemite Wall

Grade: 7a+ ***
(Malham Cove)
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