UKC

Restricted Access

Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.

27m.

Rockfax Description
A tremendous pitch which requires careful rope work. It is only E6 if the good peg on Stairway to Heaven is clipped. Follow Barracuda to the bush in the main break (peg above). Traverse 2m right and make one move up before continuing the traverse to a small corner - small cam in a flake and good peg on Stairway to Heaven to the right. Crux moves up rightwards end at a break and a move right into another small corner. Take the wall on right to finish. Lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The original and true start is up Central Wall to the bush at the break creating a true line trending right and up the whole wall. Not an access point of least resistance for rope drag. Also Barracuda didn't exist at that time!

FA. Pete Gomersall, Duncan Drake 1980. Pete Gomersall puts up one of the UK?s first E7s, rejecting the use of bolts and in-keeping with the tradition of the approach to free climbing on this wall. 19/Sep/1980.

Ticklists

Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Crowe 28 Jun, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Possibly the most popular E7 on Yorkshire Trad Limstone in 2000?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Possibly the most popular E7 on Yorkshire Trad Limstone in 2000?

Logged Ascents

11 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blue Scar

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 3 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E8
Mid E8
Low E8
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
Votes cast 5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gates of Babylon

Grade: E7 6c ***
(Maiden's Bluff)

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