UKC

Restricted Access

Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.

103m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine outing with a mix of trad and sport that follows the break that runs all the way across both buttresses. Take cams, a small rack of wires and at least 16 quickdraws. The first 2 pitches are not on the topo. 1) 5c, 30m. Either start up Blue Blood or Phase 2 or start further right and follow the break all the way across to the tree next to In the Blue Corner. 2) 5b, 23m. Move across on small holds to traverse the break at foot level until the grassy ledge on Rising Passions is reached. Step down and follow the break at hand level until Midge Repellent is gained. Move across and use the tree roots to gain the corner. Climb down easily to the belay on Once Bitten. 3) 5c, 15m. Care with the rock required in places. Step down and then move carefully across to the bolts on From Beer to Infirmity. Follow this to the roof. Swing left across the corner and round to a belay on the front of the pillar. 4) 6a, 25m. Follow the break across the top of the arch, passing many bolts and a couple of semi rests, to a hanging belay. 5) 5c, 10m. A fingery traverse leads across to the finish of Blue Swede's Shoes. Lower off from here or you could alternatively cross some vegetated rock to the next belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The best and by far the most exciting of the various traverses is full girdle of the Right Wing with a mix of trad and sport. It follows the break that runs all the way across the crag. A fine outing for a competent party though it may be prudent to carry prussiks and, as the break does seep, a small cleaning brush. Take Friends ½ to 3 and a small rack of Rock 1 to 5 wires (for pitch 1) plus at least 16 clips and a couple of long slings.

1. 30m 5c Originally started up Phase 2 but now possible to the right and follows the break all the way across to the tree on The Wall
2. 23m F6b Move across on small holds to traverse the break at foot level until the grassy ledge on Rising Passions is reached. Step down and follow the break at hand level until Midge Repellent is gained. Move across and use the tree roots to gain the corner. Climb down easily to the belay on Once Bitten.
3. 5c 15m Care with the rock required in places. Step down and then move carefully across to the bolts on From Beer to Infirmity. Follow this to the roof. Swing left across the corner and round to a belay on the front of the pillar.
4.F7a+ 25m Follow the break across the top of the arch, passing many bolts and a couple of semi rests, to a fine hanging belay.
5. F6b 10m A fingery traverse leads across to the finish of Blue Swede’s Shoes. Lower off from here or you could cross some vegetated rock to the next belay.

03.08.07 Paul Clarke, Keith Morgan.

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Guidebooks for Blue Scar

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Route of Interest
Small Brown

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Crookrise)

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