UKC

Restricted Access

Currently access can only be gained with permission of the landowner, Patrick Walker via email. Mr Walker owns the farm land and buildings below the left hand side of the cliff and the left wing of the crag. Other landowners own the various parcels of land below Central Wall and the Right Wing and the majority of the cliff face and are happy for climbing to continue but so far, the only agreed access route from the road is via Mr Walker's Land.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction applies to the whole crag for both peregrine and raven. The birds on this cliff are more sensitive to disturbance than at other sites such as Malham Cove.

25m.

Rockfax Description
Start right of the tree. Follow a line left to below the roof past a thread and pull over and up to the main break - peg. Step left, climb to the overlap and then take the groove on the right - thread - which culminates in a hard move leftwards - peg and thread. Make a long move up and right and finish direct. There is a lower-off on the vegetated ledges above. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Gomersall, Phil Davidson 1982. Another classic find by Pete Gomersall, the first on this side of the Central Wall..

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , Yorkshire Limestone top 50

Feedback

User Date Notes
GeoffG 20 Feb, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Another brilliant pitch. Tricky from the start and it just keeps on going! Balancy crux and long reach to finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Another brilliant pitch. Tricky from the start and it just keeps on going! Balancy crux and long reach to finish.

Logged Ascents

16 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Blue Scar

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 3 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 7
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Bite it and Believe it, Suck it and See

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gordale Scar)

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