Well positioned, although escapable climbing that takes on the full-height of the main face. The top pitch has been upgraded to Severe from its traditional grade of HVD. Start just to the right of a boot-wide crack.
1) 15m. Ascend the slab just right of the crack to some big flakes. Climb these to a belay ledge that runs rightwards into the gully.
2) 14m. Traverse right to a crack 1m left of the gully and climb this, and its left wall, to slabby ground. The awkward corner left of the crack can also be climbed, but is harder. Climb leftwards to a belay platform on the arete.
3) 10m. Above is an arete with a crack on its left. Gain the crack from the right, tricky, and follow it to below the leaning wall and arete above. Move right, around the base of the arete and up to a stance at the base of a steep chimney/corner.
4) 4a,13m. A wild pitch. Bridge up the steep corner/chimney which eases after 5m. Continue on better holds to easier ground and the top. © Rockfax
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