Rockfax Description
The classic of this buttress does not disappoint. The climbing is well-protected and can be climbed at highish tides during calm seas by making a straightforward abseil approach down East Gully and belaying on high ledges at the start of the first pitch.

1) 4a, 13m. Move up easily to the base of a wide crack. Take the crack that leads up left to a large belay ledge.
2) 4a, 12m. Move up to the V-chimney behind the stance and climb it before making a move right and up to a guano stained belay ledge.
3) 4a, 10m. Move right to a steep crack and climb to a belay ledge.
4) 4b, 12m. The wide crack/chimney above leads to a niche from which harder climbing accesses a ledge and belay.
5) 4a, 12m. Continue up short corners, past ledges, to the top of the cliff. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Classic Rock, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, South West VDiff-HVS, CUC Climbing Club, Part 1: The Classics, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Original 'Classic Rock' List.

Rooney90 08/Nov/17 AltLd
danjouan 08/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
AngelaC 24/Sep/17 Lead
with Richard
ChrisLloyd 24/Sep/17 2nd
with Chuck
Rachael88 22/Sep/17 2nd dnf

Abseiled in, but wet and greasy so we prussiked out

with Adam
BStar 22/Sep/17 Lead dnf

Abseiled down, base was very wet and greasy, then it started to rain, chimney did not look inviting to say the least. Prussiked back out... fun times

with Rachael
Fatclimber 07/Sep/17 AltLd O/S


Conan 04/Sep/17 -

Jumped up off the belay to avoid getting wet

john jennings 04/Sep/17 AltLd

Proper classic rock. Steep and exciting. I led the the first pitch, which is fairly bold. C. led 2 and 3 together.

with Conan
Hidden 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
ADJ85 28/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Lead final 3 pitches (as one), middle pitch is steep for S but great climbing

with Ad
isandyharper 27/Aug/17 AltLd
Blanka 27/Aug/17 AltLd

Lead pitch 3

with Pixie & Andy H
Pixie-Andy 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Awesome. Led P4 & 5

with isandyharper, Blanka Russell
m.powell02 24/Aug/17 Lead O/S
mattcoleman 24/Aug/17 2nd
Hog Dog 23/Aug/17 Lead O/S
with Tor Nockles, Andy Howell
Hidden 12/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
iWoody5025 10/Aug/17 AltLd
Nickwild 06/Aug/17 AltLd
with Daniel Wild
Daniel-Wild 06/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Nick
Etta 25/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Simon led P1, P2 and P4. I led P3 and P5. Hard start at the wide crack, probably HS with very little protection. Gulls nesting on the belay ledge of P3, so I ended up setting the belay a bit higher up, at the base of the chimney. Memorable, for many reasons.

simoncov 25/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Gosh, getting out of the P2 chimney without bridging right was a constricted fight, I should have read the description (& polished holds) more carefully. Also really struggled on P1 because it was so wet and poorly protected until I got a micro-cam in a pocket between the wide corner crack and the arête. Anyway, great route.

with Etta
ChrisGard 23/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Jake Blum
Luke_92 23/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

We meant to climb this, but ended up off route most the time. After a whole lot of kerfuffle on my part, I seem to have traversed a lot, and finished up the E1 next door by mistake. Thought I was making a real mess of a Severe... no falls or rests though!

K_Maywood 23/Jul/17 2nd
with mike , Georgie sweet
Phill_ Thompson 13/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Prins
Phill_ Thompson 13/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
with Lucy Prins
Hidden 08/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
melv 07/Jul/17 Lead O/S

Wow. Don't forget to take in the exposure when bridging the chimney pitch!

with Fi
Hidden 25/Jun/17 Lead rpt
Bjoen 18/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Sander First pitch

with Sander Rus
Hidden 11/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
crater 11/Jun/17 AltLd rpt

led 2+5

with liam
Hidden 14/May/17 Lead O/S
lizbarilepage 14/May/17 2nd
with Paul Seabrook
George_Surf 10/May/17 AltLd O/S

in approach shoes. wild nesting seagull on route!

rachelpearce01 10/May/17 AltLd O/S
67hours 29/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Ita's first outdoor route. Quite an experience! Climbed in 7 pitches as started too low.

with CatO, Ita
Clay C 29/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Steve C
steely 21/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

P1,2&5. A classic route climbed in a classic style. Disappointing lack of ornithology along the way!

with luke armitage
suds_01 21/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Tom Horton
JendeHoxar 21/Apr/17 Solo O/S
with Flavio
Flavio 21/Apr/17 Solo O/S
Senna 16/Apr/17 Lead O/S
ned_85 16/Apr/17 AltLd
with Scott Marc Berry
Hidden 16/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
Hmgslade 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
with Jack
Hidden 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/17 2nd
cdpuk 13/Apr/17 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Apr/17 AltLd
Sam4242 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
with Dan Richards
Caitlin 25/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
mikespooner 25/Feb/17 AltLd
Hidden 17/Feb/17 AltLd O/S
Rob Seymour 12/Feb/17 AltLd
TheCrackDestroyer ??/2017 AltLd O/S
Rob Seymour 28/Dec/16 Lead
with Ron Chambers
DAL 18/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
benclimbing 18/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

First pitch wet and felt very bold. Probably HS 4a for this pitch

Hidden 02/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/16 Lead
Rhys Deane 02/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Sam Russel
Will Mortimer 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Rach's first real experience on the sea cliffs! Amazing day for it! Not sure she'd say the same...

with Rachel Calow
beni 02/Oct/16 Lead O/S
joermann 28/Sep/16 AltLd

Missed the first 2 pitches. First corner was wave washed and soaked. Didn't like the look of it in those conditions so we did the first pitch of south face direct and traversed in left. Greasy all the way with the mist but this just added to the atmosphere of a classic chimney.

Rob Seymour 25/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Abseiled into boiling sea without the guide and just started back out up the first thing we could get onto, switched to the main pitch of Neptune above.

with Bob Watson
jonnysims 08/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 3

with Gary Bains, Mike Conlon
Norman_P_W 08/Sep/16 AltLd
with Bob M
Bob M 08/Sep/16 AltLd
EllieWoods 29/Aug/16 AltLd
with Leo
rob.grafton 29/Aug/16 Lead
Tommy yorke 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with alex
emc110502 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Aug/16 AltLd
Hidden 23/Aug/16 2nd O/S
efrance24234 22/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Full of shit.

Hidden 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
jackbell 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with James, Robbie
Hidden 16/Aug/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/16 AltLd
Joel Perkin 11/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1&2 ran together. Nice climbing.

with Big Rob
MariaT 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
dpiddock 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Led p2 and 4

Hidden 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
9fingerjon 06/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Matt
M_Robinson 05/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Ella Watkinson
ellawatkinson 05/Aug/16 2nd
with Michael Robinson
eduardo 26/Jul/16 Lead O/S

A bit damp, started at the top of P2

with lout
Lmt 26/Jul/16 2nd
with Ed
roryferris 19/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

b2 boots and heavy equipment worn

with Kev
kev1307 19/Jul/16 AltLd
NeilHowarth 16/Jul/16 AltLd
ali macphee 14/Jul/16 Lead
with Hilary
Matt Schwarz 03/Jul/16 AltLd
with katie
Katie S 03/Jul/16 AltLd
jon59 18/Jun/16 Lead
robertmills4 15/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Katie Welch
Katie Welch 15/Jun/16 2nd O/S
with Rob Mills
derryclimbs 05/Jun/16 Lead O/S

Final two pitches after linking south face Direct's first pitch with a beautiful bulgey face climb - maybe HVS

K Mckay 02/Jun/16 Lead

Ben's first climb in over a year and a half and what a climb! Covered in shit, fantastic location and well-protected sustained climbing at the grade.

Col Kingshott 29/May/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 24/May/16 AltLd
George Budd 24/May/16 2nd O/S
Lizard Ollie 24/May/16 AltLd O/S

Jake led P1&2 together and I strung the final three together. A good route but slightly unpleasant on the nose from all the guano and dead birds.

dripdry1 24/May/16 Lead O/S

A nice route, first severe on granite! Relatively committing face climbing on pitch 2 and tricky moves within the chimney.

with George Budd
asmith37 06/May/16 AltLd O/S
P Gard ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Richezzz 30/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
with James King
Hidden 30/Apr/16 AltLd
jamesk93 30/Apr/16 AltLd dog
Tdavy01 30/Apr/16 AltLd
Hidden 17/Apr/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/16 AltLd
mountain musher ??/2016 AltLd
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
MJS ??/2016 -
pete87abs ??/2016 -
with Rosie Crossley
Hidden 31/Oct/15 Lead O/S
nmott 18/Oct/15 2nd O/S
with Donald
crater 18/Oct/15 Lead O/S

no gear first pitch except "panic nut", lead all pitchs, ran 3-5 together,really enjoyable

with nicky
funkyvin1 18/Oct/15 2nd

Topped out as the sun dropped below the horizon on a beautiful October day.

with Diccon
clubmanpete 03/Oct/15 AltLd

warm up climb and great if your new to the area...

Skinnybloke 03/Oct/15 AltLd

Lead first pltch, nice warm up

Hidden 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
andrewmc 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 & 2, Zack led 3, 4 & 5. Pitch 1 was very bold!

Alexseren 09/Sep/15 AltLd
K_Maywood 06/Sep/15 AltLd
Hidden 05/Sep/15 AltLd
LouMullen ?/Sep/15 AltLd O/S
with Mark
Bullybones 31/Aug/15 Lead
with Linda F
Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Dazluke2000 29/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
Matt Harmon 07/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

led P2-P5 in one big pitch, straightforward but lots of birds nest en route

Sarah Roscoe 07/Aug/15 AltLd
iainstap 18/Jul/15 Lead G/U
BelayBunney 18/Jul/15 Lead rpt

Once again, I went off route and did the first half of South Face Direct by accident. I find the picture in the RockFax a bit u clear for this climb

Billiam king ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Anthony Dixon 23/Jun/15 AltLd
with Shann
Hidden 19/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
chrismadar 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 2 and 5. Kate did an amazing job up pitches 3 and 4!

kateharborne 15/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitches 1, 3 & 4 (ran the two together as there were birds nesting on the route). An enjoyable climb up the chimney - not too narrow! Exiting the crag after top out was an interesting experience though.

iwanap 06/Jun/15 AltLd

Met a nesting gull on the 3 pitch, make sure you carry chocks.

Hidden 05/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
Kate Edhouse 28/May/15 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/15 AltLd
Matt Smith 23/May/15 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, p1 and 2 combined, p3 and 4 combined. A good route but not the classic I was expecting, quite hard also. P4 chimney was just a thrutch fest. Seagulls and fulmars everywhere also.

Hidden 23/May/15 2nd O/S
mes32 21/May/15 AltLd

Did first pitch of the VS which was soaking wet and slimy. Traversed to escape into this. Vomited all over by nesting fulmar. Not a nice route or a great day!

with Cameron
cameron_hall 21/May/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1 of South Face Direct, but the next section was wet and slippery. Mary then led left and up to the belay at the top of P3 of Pendulum Chimney (passing a nesting fulmar en route), and we finished up the rest of the route (I led P4, Mary led P5). Fulmars do not make for pleasant climbs!

Hidden 07/May/15 AltLd
Alex Hallam 26/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

After a significant amount of faff finding the right place to abseil what a start to an excellent day out. NB always look for tat or steaks before abbing into the wrong place...

with Pete Mack
Samuel Wainwright 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd O/S
pete_mack 25/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Alex
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
Montecore 07/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
with Andrew Gardner
Legs 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S
petrch 04/Apr/15 Lead
with Ilya Zhuravel
Jackislav 20/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 & 4, Lovely climbing on good gear, had a bit of an epic with a bulky rucksack through the chimney when Baz came up on the second but had a bloody good day out!

Hidden 20/Mar/15 Lead O/S
Monkey_Alan 07/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with John Knight
Adam Hill 06/Mar/15 AltLd

Led P3 and 4. A lot of fun.

with Simon
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd
Antoine1 ??/2015 -
Jacob Phillips ??/2015 Lead
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
Mike Bayley ??/2015 -
DavidH89 ??/2015 -
ChrisGard 28/Dec/14 AltLd O/S

Completed 1st pitch of South Face direct then traversed onto Pendulum Chimney

with Chris Lucas
tobydunford 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
beds74 21/Sep/14 AltLd

I did 1,2 in one Dave finished it off. Good but Classic status...? Hmm. Easy for a 'Classic Rock' chimney.

with Dave Fisher
Steve Woollard 10/Sep/14 AltLd
with Bob Dawson
dbm 01/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Tom P
TP 01/Sep/14 -
with Dave M
jhb0510 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

I lead 1,3,5. Paul the other 2.

with Paul Hooper
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya 19/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Ian Smith
seanprendiville 16/Aug/14 Lead
with Tessa
dkd 11/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Al
Hidden 04/Aug/14 2nd O/S
theandthem ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
tmather 27/Jul/14 -
BLodge 17/Jun/14 AltLd
Hidden 16/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May/14 2nd O/S
AliceKerr ?/May/14 Lead
DanChad 22/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Chris Murray 22/Apr/14 Lead

Awesome route. I'll never be able to smell stale p*%s again without thinking of this route. [A note on pro on the 1st pitch; there is a poor nut placement at the top of the wall where you move left from the crack which will protect the move up onto the ledge...probably]

Kyle87 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Accidentally started on the VS crack/chimney to the right, big easy traverse left to regain the route at the 3rd pitch. All jolly good fun.

Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
saraguti 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Led 2nd and 4rd pitch

with rick sewards
Hidden 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Jonesy_A 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches on my first multipitch lead :-) Fun climb in the sun once we worked out where the start was... :-)

with Slow Norris
Wevcore 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Jen Gilbert
matt.woodfield 09/Apr/14 AltLd O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with andrew marshall
Hidden ??/2014 -
Alfie Conn ??/2014 AltLd
montymoo 23/Nov/13 AltLd
with Gareth
Gareth 23/Nov/13 AltLd O/S

As 2 pitches, Mark first.

with Mark
andybenham 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Ben
Poco Loco 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

An enjoyable route - I'd recommend doing it the time of year, guano wasn't a problem. The first pitch isn't well protected and woke me up. Good fun after that, with a well protected thrutch up the chimney to finish.

with Lucy
gingerbex 05/Oct/13 2nd
with Simon Inger
lucyh 05/Oct/13 2nd

I really enjoyed this climb..great variety in climbing..4th pitch was a struggle.

gordon henderson 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Kerry Johnstone
j.buckley87 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
LJKing 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with George King
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd
Ian JL 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MazElden 16/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Graeme James Cook 16/Aug/13 2nd O/S
SuperLee1985 13/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
John Roe 10/Aug/13 Lead
with Gav Sayer
RichyBOYY 06/Aug/13 AltLd

First sea cliff multi pitch - wow. lead last couple pitches as one. Topping out is epic!

greengrasss 06/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

first sea cliff, climbing was easy enough. Felt very exposed at times probably me just cacking it..

Hidden 06/Aug/13 AltLd
adamre12 ?/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome introduction to sea cliff multipitching. First pitch is dangerously unprotected but easy.

with Jess Addisson
steve.aisthorpe 13/Jul/13 AltLd
with Pete Greening
Chris dyer 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S

This was my first ever sea cliff climb! It was a really good climb, there is a birds nest at the second belay point, other than that it was great fun and really nice climbing!

with Tom Moores, Josh sims
josh.sims 06/Jul/13 2nd O/S
net 05/Jul/13 2nd
with George
GPN 05/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Annette
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
Fletch 09/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Matthew Robinson
Hidden 09/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Coops_13 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Last two pitches after being chased off-route by seagulls

with Rachel Ashwell
Hidden 06/Jun/13 Lead
Dan Geh 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Nice dirty route, covered in shit. Nearly got attacked by a sea gull, had my hexes at the ready!

with Sam, Charlie
Hidden 06/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
brianrunner 01/Jun/13 AltLd

good route in great situation but jackdaws nest on p2 and gull nest on p3.

with martina
Skullfire 25/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jun Minohara
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
auld al 25/May/13 AltLd O/S

good rock but could do with a power hose!

Hidden 24/May/13 -
Hidden 24/May/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/May/13 AltLd O/S
gareth swanson 21/May/13 2nd O/S

over cast, windy.

gareth swanson 21/May/13 2nd O/S

over cast, windy.

Hidden 21/May/13 Lead
Hidden 20/May/13 Lead O/S
neiloutdoors 06/May/13 2nd
ChrisHarris1981 06/May/13 2nd O/S
carl_123 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Richard Alderton 05/May/13 AltLd
with Ellie
tracyclimber 05/May/13 Lead
EllieWoods 05/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jono, Rich
will moy 12/Apr/13 Lead O/S

great route. Big seas so had to ab in and miss first pitch. don't let the seagull poo keep you away it doesn't effect the route what so ever

with sophie
rockpool 06/Apr/13 Lead

led all pitches

with wendy mathews
Wendy Watthews 06/Apr/13 2nd rpt
elbeanio ?/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Philippa Arding ?/Apr/13 Lead
with anna thompson
aljezurusrf08 09/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Willow
Dave192939 01/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

Nice climbing, but the white stuff all over the rock is definitely not chalk

Wendy Watthews 01/Jan/13 AltLd
Richard Kinsman ??/2013 Lead O/S
Ianhansen ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
PAJames ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Norman_P_W 30/Oct/12 AltLd
markfromstoke 30/Oct/12 AltLd
with Norman
Bobling 30/Sep/12 AltLd

Did not look promising from the base but was in fact excellent, if only there was not so much guano! Thrutchfest on pitch 4 up Chimney, felt strenuous for severe.

with Rich N
Slick 30/Sep/12 AltLd

Nice once into the Chimney. Shame about the guano

Chris Manasseh 29/Sep/12 AltLd

Led 1,3,5

Private Flounder 28/Sep/12 AltLd
with chris manasseh
Hidden 17/Sep/12 AltLd
Skip 08/Sep/12 AltLd dog
A Walker 08/Sep/12 AltLd
with Skip
ripoffthemonkey 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
manbat 07/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

AJ and I escaped onto this after bailing off South Face Direct. Tough for a Severe. AJ copped the nasty pitch.

Mayo 06/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Pilch 02/Sep/12 -
Log dog 26/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

It was high tide so we absailed in, there was a big swell we got splashed a little on the first pitch, really exciting!

with jack reed
Bristoldave 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Caroline
Bex_M 18/Aug/12 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Dunbar
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/12 2nd
Mike_Hayes 16/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Thunderthighsontheloose 16/Jul/12 2nd

Great route - nice close ups of seagull chicks!

MinHazeldine 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/12 AltLd
HIGHTOWER 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Mat (Leuchas)
jdgaventa 04/Jun/12 Lead
with katy
Darrell Read 03/Jun/12 AltLd

Ollie led pitch 2 and 5. Lots of seagulls nesting on the route. Got attacked by one!

jarodbishop ?/Jun/12 AltLd
with Christoph
31770 27/May/12 AltLd
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd
jpksalmon 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Did it in two pitches, 1&2 together and 3,4&5 together, Matt led the first pitch and I led the second. Weather was dry and cool.

with Matt Rust
Joby 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led 2nd and 4th pitch, good fun

with Mike Hooper
rustaldo 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

average route considering its in the rockfax top 50, two long pitches, I lead the first and john the second, we aggravated loads of seagulls who later shat on mike henesy - the same day liverpoo lost the cup final!!

with John Salmon, Si
mike hooper 05/May/12 AltLd
with jobey martin
mikehenesy 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Tim Johns
Marti999 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
guy757 15/Apr/12 -
Hamish777 11/Apr/12 AltLd β
with Andrea
andrea83 11/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Climbed previously leading all pitches. This time lead P3 and P4.

with Hamish
mariannekhoo 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Sonya Crowe
wildrover220 06/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
Wendy Watthews 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

alex ran 1&2 together I lead 3,4&5 together

arandall 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

Ran the first two pitches together until the steep crack, then wendy led the whole chimney as one pitch.

gingerking ?/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Josh Hadley, James Hadley
Josh Hadley ?/Mar/12 2nd
Hidden 16/Feb/12 Lead O/S
2602steve ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
captain dringo ??/2012 -
goadventure1 ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
james chesmer ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Rowan Chesmer, Martin Chesmer
jag ??/2012 AltLd

perfect for the grade. big belay ledges, stunning situation and superbly varied climbing. loved it

with steveo
neilstubbs 15/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
with Stefan Parkin
Country_Boy 11/Sep/11 2nd RP
with Stu Bradbury
Simon Caldwell 30/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

In 5 pitches, I led the even ones. Could combine pitches but the belay positions are all so good that it's worth doing as per the guidebook. Other than the ledge at the end of the V chimney there was no guano :-) A brilliant route, one of the best I've done.

with Carmen
mike hooper 28/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

slight rain at the car park but dryed up to be a sunny day

with dave dean
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Solo O/S
mark sharples 20/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 14/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Dave Mason 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with Trev Tatler
BelayBunney 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Atmospheric! Might have gone off route on P1 though as it seemed a bit sparse on the gear front and harder than S 4b!

Hidden 03/Jul/11 2nd O/S
stuaart 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

5 pitches as per WCC Rockfax. I led P1+P2 (ran together), Tom led P3+P4 (ran together), David led P5. Quality marred somewhat by the filthiness.

with David Smith, Thomas Smith
thomasaneurinsmith 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Perhaps should be renamed 'Guano Grooves'?

with Dad, Stuart Reeves
lou_p 03/Jun/11 2nd
with Chris
highfivekrissy 02/Jun/11 AltLd
Em66 02/Jun/11 AltLd
with Mat
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead
peter myers ?/Jun/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
shoulders 29/May/11 AltLd dnf
with dai
sims 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with Nick and Jonno
Martin Stevens 27/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Mervyn L.
dan gibson 26/Apr/11 2nd O/S
with helen gibson
avin_a_look 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

P1, P3 and P5: Phil. P2 and P4: Me

stevepotter 24/Apr/11 AltLd

ran together most pitches. Plastered in birdshit

with Bryan
hellboundblr 24/Apr/11 AltLd

No route description as intended climb busy, just topo. Took about 1hr. Me P1 & P2 in one. Steve P3 & P4 in one. Me P5. Lots of bird shit - really didn't mean to put wires in mouth.

with Steve P
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd
DOVEY 23/Apr/11 Lead
with billie & j
Hidden 23/Apr/11 AltLd
tompilgrem 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p 1/3/5. A guano feast!

with Dad
bobpilgrem 19/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

A guanno fest!! Had to be done to get the classic rock tick.

with Bob/Tom
Tarquin 18/Apr/11 -
with Ness
dickypips 17/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

led first pitch.we did in 2 pitches

with Roy Thomas
Neil D 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P3, P4.

Betha. 20/Mar/11 AltLd O/S


with Neil D
d_meacher 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
with Beth Oates
royal 09/Jan/11 Lead O/S

Great climb. Perfect balance got harder and more exposed until the top 3/4 and then a nice easy top out to stunning view. Judging by other comments january was a good time to do it with hardly any guarno bird shit in the chimneys :) Day was perfect with sun setting in front of the crag, no wind and moon in front of the crag for the climb off the tower!

with rob
Safety Monkey ??/2011 AltLd

Proposed to my girlfriend and she said yes!

31770 ??/2011 -
Bullybones ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
brianrunner ??/2011 -
Mark Salter ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
JEP ??/2011 -
erinbastian 12/Dec/10 2nd
with andy
Hidden 12/Dec/10 Lead O/S
Mayo 05/Dec/10 Lead O/S

Chimney was soaking and horrible

cornishbekx 05/Dec/10 2nd
with mayo
Hidden 24/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/10 AltLd
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead O/S
GuyC 01/Sep/10 AltLd rpt
with Clare
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Andre Clarke 28/Aug/10 AltLd
dpe 27/Aug/10 2nd

Completed in three pitches (1&2,3&4,5)

Hidden 18/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 16/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hamish777 14/Aug/10 2nd
with Andrea
andrea83 14/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fantastic. Lead all pitches.

with Hamish
Tenko 13/Aug/10 AltLd
with Guy Williams
Hidden 13/Aug/10 AltLd
tomB 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/10 AltLd
John Brayshaw 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Erica
erica 31/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 1 3 and 5

with John
Hidden 23/Jul/10 Lead
Hidden 10/Jul/10 Lead
martinp 26/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Ali S
lauramfletcher 31/May/10 2nd O/S

Climbed with Jo and Sam - fun apart from the seagull attacks!

ollyhorst 02/May/10 Lead O/S
dja 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

Halfway up pitch 3 had a bat fly out of the crack and nearly slap me in the face. Covered in turds too!!!

with Chris Dean
Hidden 17/Apr/10 AltLd dog
Different Steve 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Clare
riddle 04/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
hazeysunshine 03/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with Dave
1651SP 14/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Mark van vleit
callum brown ??/2010 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue ??/2010 Lead
with Peter Hart
Hidden 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
cooper leek 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Great route.Guanotastic

with donk
donkster 26/Sep/09 AltLd O/S
with ben
bob johnson 24/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

yes a very fine climb indeed despite the gwarm which in the heat produced a choking gas

with Bram
Hidden 12/Sep/09 AltLd
mattkemp70 ?/Sep/09 AltLd
with Westy
Graham Westbrook ?/Sep/09 AltLd
Mike Hargreaves 18/Aug/09 -
with Graham Chadwick
adam.wheeler 30/Jul/09 2nd
with Andrea van der Vilt, Mark Edwards, Dave Wheeler
Hidden 30/Jul/09 2nd
jimorothy 23/Jul/09 Lead

Atmospheric: sea chasing in had us at a gallop up slightly harder direct start until, ay up, seagulls and chicks and fish bones and guano guano everywhere. Yet one of the finest routes I've ever experienced.

with Rachel Crolla
Mark D 04/Jun/09 AltLd O/S
with Ewan Irvine
Steve Lenartowicz ?/Jun/09 -
with Ed, Tilly
deklan 29/May/09 AltLd
with dad
Bob M 24/May/09 Lead
with Dave Kyle
Hidden 23/May/09 -
csalvage 03/May/09 AltLd

Accessed after p1 of South Face Direct. I led pitch before chimney and last steep wall complete with bombing fom angry black backed gulls, very atmospheric!

with Bryan
Julian Prieto 02/May/09 2nd O/S
with Neil Weymouth, Lesley Markie
Rose Williams 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
gnc760 02/Apr/09 AltLd O/S
with Rose Williams
Pete Rigby ??/2009 Lead
ewan i ??/2009 AltLd
SurferStan 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

Lead P3 and P5

with Dilwat
Dilwat 26/Sep/08 AltLd O/S

P1+2 , p4

mark4344 17/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with Nick Coles
markfairbank 01/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Done in 4 pitches, led 1&3 with abit of an alternative pitch 1 and 2 due to going slightly off route on P1.

with Mick D
Hidden ?/Aug/08 Lead
2shortplanks 14/Jun/08 -
SteveM 09/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Tobs
Hidden ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
mreynolds 02/May/08 Lead O/S
timreynolds 02/May/08 Lead
Jim Walton ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S
ellentaylor 29/Sep/07 AltLd O/S

Lead p 1 + 3

lithos 23/Aug/07 AltLd O/S

abbed down east chimney in searing heat. P1 (wall) + P2 run together, P4 (thrutchy chimney) + P5 together

Hedley ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Matt Conway
centurion05 ?/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with chris thorne
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/07 AltLd
Hidden 16/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
Jon_Warner 16/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

Lead 1(direct),2,4. Perfect climbing.

with Jonny
Hidden 09/Apr/07 2nd
IanGilbertJones 17/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
AngelaC ??/2007 AltLd
Geoffers ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Richie, Tim
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ?/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
sgl 31/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Caralynh 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Climbed as 2 pitch. Led first pitch.

Gav J 26/Aug/06 Lead

Busy on a bank holiday weekend but worth every bit of the wait and very sociable at the belay stances!

with Kate & Liz
Hidden 26/Aug/06 AltLd
dpmUK 26/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Led pitches 3,4,5 as one

DerwentDiluted 17/Aug/06 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
hal ?/Jun/06 -
Kyuzo ?/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with Hal Watts
Hidden 13/Apr/06 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
liz77 ??/2006 2nd
with HRC
Hidden 29/Aug/05 AltLd
crossdressingrodney 21/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
victim of mathematics 21/Jun/05 AltLd O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/05 Lead
hepitt ??/2005 -
MazElden ??/2005 -
Alastair Hudson 10/Apr/04 Lead O/S
with Clare Young
Hidden ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/03 AltLd
Hidden 13/Jul/03 AltLd
EllieWoods 22/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
MazElden 04/Mar/03 -
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
1202alarm ??/2003 -
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
rapidrich 13/Sep/02 Lead O/S
with Kate
GuyC 26/Aug/02 AltLd O/S
with Maz, Clare
Tom Vivian ?/Jul/02 AltLd
with Ben Wray
Mickdenali ??/2002 Lead
with Mark Hutchinson
keith leonard ??/2002 -
Hidden 24/Jul/01 AltLd O/S
BALD EAGLE 09/Jun/01 AltLd
with Duncan Bender
gladys 01/Oct/00 -
Hidden ?/Sep/00 AltLd
andy_pemberton ?/Sep/00 Lead
with Katharine Pemberton
Bullybones ??/2000 -
alan moore ??/2000 Solo
Steveb27 ??/2000 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/98 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May/98 2nd O/S
mike fenwick ?/May/98 Lead
with Lucy
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
timreynolds 03/May/97 AltLd
with John Burnip
skygodley 03/Apr/97 Lead O/S
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/97 AltLd

Pitch 1 bold.

with Debbie Wilkinson
belay bunny turned bad ??/1997 Lead
five ?/Jun/96 AltLd O/S
Dave Mountford ??/1996 Lead

rough date

with brian edmunds, Tony (stig)
tradguy 01/Oct/95 AltLd O/S
with Ed Lamb
ed_1973 01/Oct/95 AltLd
Raggar ?/May/95 AltLd
with John H
Hidden 14/Apr/95 Lead
colin milton 18/Mar/95 AltLd
with eric milton
John Andrew Simpson ??/1995 Lead O/S
with Phil Proctor
Simon cook ?/May/94 Lead

Instructing on Marjohn outdoor outdoor course

Hidden ?/Apr/92 AltLd
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
uphillnow 30/May/91 -
Andy Chubb 24/Aug/90 AltLd
with Roger
DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

DaveHo ??/1990 Lead O/S

Done pre UKC in the 80's or 90's and are on a tick list.

Mark Kemball ??/1990 Lead
with Alison Dorey
Hidden ?/Aug/89 Lead O/S
nigehughes ?/May/89 Lead
with Mark Troy
BigHairyIan 01/Jan/89 AltLd O/S

Alan had just led the first pitch when a wave came rolling in that blocked out the horizon! I legged it up the first pitch as it came ever closer. I got to within 10ft of the belay, with Alan just taking the rope in hand over hand, as the wave hit the rock. Massive noise and the boiling foamy water came to within a few feet of me! Just ten mins earlier we had been sat on the rocks at the bottom eating a sandwich, without a care in the world. Oh, and then we ended up finishing in the dark... What a day!

with Alan Lilley (Thug)
Moses 17/Aug/88 Lead O/S
Iain Thow 06/Apr/88 AltLd

Led 1,2&5

with Steve Ball
nigehughes ?/Aug/87 AltLd
with Steve Magee
davemhart 29/Jul/87 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/87 AltLd O/S
pauldrew ??/1987 -
kjacks ?/Aug/86 Lead
with Alison McCosh, Phil McCosh
Hidden 06/Sep/85 Solo
Richard Weller 25/May/85 Solo dnf

First two pitches

Hidden 18/Jul/84 AltLd
ill_bill ?/Apr/83 AltLd
Hidden 22/Jul/82 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 20/Jul/82 Lead
Chris Terrey 18/Apr/81 Lead
with Richard Langthorpe
Martin Bennett 27/Jul/80 Solo
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
Hidden ??/1979 -
Hidden ?/Dec/78 Lead
tapley 08/Oct/78 Lead
with Alison Tapley
Steve Woollard ??/1978 Lead
Shaw Brown ??/1978 -
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
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High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Votes cast 74
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 69
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set